Emporio Armani Pre-Fall 2019

Giorgio Armani injected a young and fun vibe into his Emporio Armani collection.
The lineup’s eye-catching look was conveyed through the flamboyant patchwork of jacquard motifs peppering coats, the graphic wild animal motifs printed on suits — their mannish silhouettes softened by the plush velvet fabric — as well as by slightly exaggerated shapes. For example, a blue Neoprene blazer and deep green trenchcoat, which was layered over a feminine, ruffled silk dress, showed bold, oversize cuts.
Denim enhanced the urban vibe of the collection with bleached jeans matched with a two-tone faux fur coat and loafers for an updated, cool tomboy look. Slim jeans were also matched with sartorial jackets, enriched by maxi buttons adding an eccentric touch.

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Nicole Miller RTW Pre-Fall 2019

Nicole Miller featured her pre-fall collection on a character who embodied its mix of tough and tender — model and professional skydiver Alyona Subbotina.
“I had such a strong personality wear them. She worked into the story because I felt I always design for that strong girl who has the feminine soft side and the edge together,” Miller mused. Camouflage prints with tiny flowers were mixed with dark floral prints on multiple easy dresses, and most memorably on an oversize utility coat. One little black dress had bows sewn all over it. “If you’re a goody-two-shoe, you make it all bows, and if you’re a badass, you make it all knots or let it hang, but I showed it half and half for duality,” the designer explained.
Miller referred to her light-colored floral frocks as “the sweeter things in life,” and mixed in bomber jackets and half-leather, half-cotton denim pants to toughen them up.

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Comedian Kevin Hart to host 2019 Oscars

Comedian and actor Kevin Hart has announced that he will be hosting the 2019 Academy Awards next February, he said in an Instagram post.


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R13 Pre-Fall 2019

R13’s Chris Leba is in the throes of consolidating his offices into a new downtown space — and gearing up to open his first brick-and-mortar store on the ground level sometime next year. Women’s market is in full swing, then men’s, then women’s again.
He drew light inspiration for his pre-fall from Sofia Coppola’s film “Marie Antoinette,” enticed by its frivolity and baroque elements. Subtle winks to the film were seen in the ruffles on billowing button-down shirts, and sand-washed floral-printed silks rendered into easy and sexy tops with animal print accents. Otherwise, the collection featured Leba’s usual balance of eccentric punk, tailoring and inventive denim.
At the core of the collection were young, exciting, wearable clothes with gender-ambiguous undertones. A bleached group of suiting and sweatshirts with safety-pin embellishments provided edge to more formal men’s-inspired attire, and upcycled vintage motorcycle jackets which are specially studded in Los Angeles and can’t easily be replicated. One effortlessly cool pinstriped blazer was cut generously and studded along the lapels. Leba noted many of the tailored items could end up in the men’s line, following a recent trend of gender-fluid design.
He thrived when using denim to experiment with new, inventive shapes, such as jackets with

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Comedian Kevin Hart to host 2019 Oscars

Comedian and actor Kevin Hart announces that he will be hosting the 2019 Academy Awards next February. Jayson Albano reports.


Reuters Video: Entertainment

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Lafayette 148 Pre-Fall 2019

Creative director Emily Smith’s formula for pre-fall was a little bit American southwest mixed with the work of light and space artist James Turrell, who is best known for the Roden Crater, a large-scale installation set inside a volcanic cinder cone in the Painted Desert region of Arizona. The result was a wide range of breezy silhouettes balancing a sense of ease with cool. Smith has been steering the brand in a younger direction the past few seasons, and this collection seemed to mark the full realization of those efforts.
References to the inspirations were light, and seen only through ombré, tie-dye and landscape prints in rich, earthy tones. A buttery camel leather coat with ombré effect displayed the collection’s sleek sensibility, while a gray leather jacket and skirt with the same dip-dye effect leaned more edgy and fun. Dresses were used as a canvas and featured abstract sand dunes and cloud prints — none of which read literal. An elegant chambray dress with obilike belt was the closest thing to Wild West fashion. She focused on silhouettes that lend themselves to easy summer dressing, including lounge-y and chic pajama sets, cotton wrap-front blouses and a great oversized travel scarf created by

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Kevin Hart Steps Down As 2019 Academy Awards Host After Homophobic Comments Resurface


HipHopDX News

Kevin Hart Steps Down as 2019 Oscars Host

Kevin HartKevin Hart has announced that he will no longer be hosting the Oscars in February.
The comedian posted the news on Twitter this evening, writing: “I have made the choice to step down…


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Christian Siriano Pre-Fall 2019

“Welcome to lavender world,” Christian Siriano declared upon entering his atelier. The designer took the color to the extreme for pre-fall, injecting soft shades of lavender and lilac into his signature sculptural gowns and a wide range of sleek, daytime silhouettes.
Siriano has been laser-focused with his pre-collections lately — remember, resort was a punch of Barbie pink. Because pre-season collections sit on sales floors the longest, it’s an effort to keep the seasonal messages consistent across different store buys.
The first piece he created was the most elaborate. It also clearly displayed the collection’s inspiration: the lavender fields in Provence, France. Dramatic, tiered layers mirrored the rows of flowers without being overbearing, and the gown would be a great Oscar-night contender, perhaps for Lady Gaga. Other dresses balancing his penchant for drama against feminine charm included a mini lilac number with voluminous sleeves, a pouffy little black dress with cold-shoulder draping, and an elegant white gown with a built-in capelet. Draping, wrap and ruffle details are modern ways Siriano has used to address conservative clients who ask for more coverage.
The collection ranged from feminine and formal to cool and everyday. Separates were meant to be mixed and matched and dressed up

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Cushnie Pre-Fall 2019

A Cartier ad, an Eddie Murphy movie and Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang. It sounds like a mixed bag of references, yet Carly Cushnie managed to extract a common thread of opulence to inform her lovely pre-fall collection, brimming with sensual dresses for which the brand is known and a key expansion of daywear.
The Cartier ad was by Jean Larivière in the Fifties, where a leopard slinks its way inside a store, representing a type of otherworldly glamour you can only dream of. It led the designer to think about the late Eighties comedy “Coming to America,” where Murphy plays a prince coming to New York from a made-up African country. Mixed together, they provided Cushnie with a recipe for light Eighties silhouettes and overall posh gloss, seen in exaggerated shoulders throughout and the draped tulle sleeves of a fabulous little black dress.
Cai Guo-Qiang’s “Heritage” piece of 99 animals sharing a watering hole informed the color palette and use of mixed prints. The mixed print dresses and skirts were the most captivating upon first glance, featuring asymmetric construction offsetting animal prints, colorblocking and pleats. But monotone dresses with sculptural lines and fluid construction proved to be more seductive, like a red

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Spring 2019 Trend: Prairie Tale

Far from Kansas, sweet pastoral dresses take on distinctly urban airs when mixed with boots, rugged chinos and utility vests.

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Tracking underclassmen declarations for 2019 NFL draft: Full list

Next year’s draft is loaded along the defensive line, and some of the best have already decided to enter the class. Here’s the full list.
www.espn.com – NFL

Kevin Hart Will ‘Rise To The Occasion’ As Host Of The 2019 Oscars

Kevin Hart will host the 91st Academy Awards ceremony in February 2019. The actor confirmed the news on Instagram.
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See by Chloé Pre-Fall 2019

In the late Eighties and early Nineties, Amy Arbus took her first street-style photographs in New York. For pre-fall, the Parisian See by Chloé girl channels those streets — “a time when youth culture thrived amidst the city’s diverse social scenes” — clad in a juxtaposition of boyish-prep-meets-fresh-femininity. Cue Prince of Wales carrot pants paired with a lilac, Victorian-inspired ruffled shirt and chunky clogs, or a varsity poncho over a drop-hem day dress and paisley pussy-bow blouse.
Paisley prints and embroidered trims ran their course throughout in faded and dusty blues on flirty matching sets and breezy dresses, while sweaters — from chunky ribbed or slightly distressed dresses to sweater vests and cardigans — kept looks cool. A particularly great paisley sweater, paired with oversized denim shorts, made for a great mash-up, as did the strongest look: a gold brocade button-up shirt, cinched under a wide belt and paired with a paneled gray denim and beige cotton carrot pant. The lineup gave modern interpretation to Arbus characters of yore.

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Givenchy Pre-Fall 2019

“It’s just amazing how dynamic society is today, how global events just rear their heads and it changes the environment that you’re in, even the pace of what we do — everything,” said Clare Waight Keller.
The designer was talking about the genesis of her pre-fall collection for Givenchy, which was inspired by Joseph Cambell’s classic “The Power of Myth,” a book she turned to recently in an effort to make sense of an increasingly chaotic environment. The Greek myth of Icarus, whose hubris led to his demise, felt particularly relevant.
Waight Keller was drawn to its symbolism, in an era when nuclear war — or a Chinese consumer boycott — may be just an ill-judged social media message away. She also liked how it provided a graphic hook for the women’s and men’s looks, in the form of hand-painted prints and bursts of solar yellow and fiery red.
The women’s wardrobe was structured around two key silhouettes: long and lean for the tailored coats with neat shoulders, crisp bolero jackets with finlike arched sleeves, and monochrome evening gowns; boldly oversized for the fake furs, cocoon coats and Eighties-style leather trenches.
Hand-crafted details abounded, from the threaded ruching on the front of a buttery

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JW Anderson Looks to Eighties Gilbert & George for Spring 2019 Capsule

LONDON — Jonathan Anderson is looking to the Eighties works of Gilbert & George, and specifically their early street shots of East End boys, for a men’s and women’s capsule that will launch Dec. 3 at Matchesfashion.com.
JW Anderson x Gilbert & George is part of the designer’s spring/summer 2019 collection and is meant to celebrate the artists, their take on masculinity and British modern life. Anderson has focused on three of his favorite works by the artistic duo: “Guard Plants” (1980), “Dog Boy” (1980) and “Heavy” (1988).
Gilbert & George’s candid shots of “normal” kids on the streets of London’s East End helped to make them famous, and by the end of the decade, works such as Heavy had become more stylized and reflective of the duo’s love of William Blake’s poetry.
“Guard Plants” shows the face of a boy in military-style uniform framed by leaves and vines in intense primary colors, while “Dog Boy” is a black-and-white shot of a teenage kid flanked by rows of flowers in full bloom. “Heavy” shows three dreamy young men floating in the sky with hair that looks as if it’s on fire.
 

JW Anderson x Gilbert & George 
Alasdair McLellan

 
Anderson said he wanted the collection to capture

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Tanya Taylor Pre-Fall 2019

“Lisbon is the coolest, it’s like a melting pot of all of your different cities.…It doesn’t feel like it’s fully finalized its identity, which I love, because you’re still discovering and it’s not like every tourist is at the same place,” designer Tanya Taylor said of her first trip to Portugal in August. From her travels, Taylor brought back the breezy, coastal spirit and infused it into her latest pre-fall collection.
Shapes felt clean and fresh, cut slimmer with flirty open-back details or slightly puffed sleeves in place of the anticipated abundance of ruffles. “Everything just felt so easy and soft and kind of feminine,” Tanya described of Portugal, which she infused into her line à la a palette of classic blues (from navy to “minty-turquoise”) and purples in various artful floral prints, as well as black-and-white polka dots, on easy dresses and flowy skirts. Newness came through knits: electric lime pointelle and chunky, striped terry-cloth-matching cardigans and little cropped sweaters, sporty knit dresses.
Taylor rounded out the collection with a group of red and blue surfer étoile printed pieces inspired by her time at Gigi’s Beach Bar in the Portuguese Algarve region. The collection embodied Taylor description of her girl:

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Sally LaPointe Pre-Fall 2019

Real or faux? As the great fur debate has moved brands passionately one way or the other, Sally LaPointe has kept her cool. The designer has become synonymous with covetable fur-accented sweaters and, with the launch of e-commerce earlier this year, has certainly seen a demand for mink. But she also introduced faux fur and shearling for resort and has seen interest here from a younger, more conscientious clientele.
She continued to expand that fur language into pre-fall, using fox fur as trimming on cozy-yet-sleek knitwear while utilizing faux fur and shearling in bold, statement outerwear. The brand is founded upon the principle of casual yet cool glam, so a faux-fur duster was grounded with a cut-and-sew wool alpaca set or sequined pants and a turtleneck, topped off by silver o-ring zipper pulls.
The collection’s Nineties tinge was drawn from men’s wear, which influenced soft tailoring done in dusty yellows and blues, sweatsuits made from Lurex and merino wool, and pinstripes fashioned into a standout graphic cashmere and merino wool top and pant. No look better defined the retro men’s influence than knit basketball shorts and a sweater set cut in a yummy papaya hue. Buttery suede separates, elevated silky pajama sets

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Predictions on the biggest NHL free-agent decisions of 2019

Jeff Skinner, Artemi Panarin and Mitch Marner are among the players hitting free agency next summer. What should their teams do?
www.espn.com – NHL

L’Autre Chose Pre-Fall 2019

Nicolò Beretta made his ready-to-wear debut at L’Autre Chose, which he joined in September as creative director, with an easy-to-wear, commercially savvy collection.
The brand’s signature French spirit gave an effortless chic attitude to the lineup, which also celebrated the Parisian lifestyle with a charming print reproducing the view of a typical café in the City of Light.
The collection offered a realistic wardrobe for the dynamic women of today. Teddy bear coats, flared denim pants, crepe sheath dresses and silk frocks printed with elegant and feminine motifs inspired by the influence of the Eastern culture in the Twenties’ Western art, were well-executed, versatile staples. Along with developing more fashionable embroidered dresses and cozy knits, Beretta developed a smart range of blouses, enriched with special ornaments, including plissé inserts.
The founder of footwear label Giannico, Beretta masterfully showed his design skills in the footwear range, including revisited loafers embellished with drapes, boots crafted from a rubberized leather and pumps showing the chunky heels punctuated by a metallic accessory inspired by the antique handles of Parisian front doors.

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Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2019

Georgia O’Keeffe — a perfect fashion muse for now, independent to the core, urbane and earthy, her defiance of convention manifested in an appealing sartorial practicality. She offers a wealth of visual imagery to mine, both in her work and the portraits of her by her husband, Alfred Stieglitz.
“I just love her, and how she went against the norm,” Tory Burch said during a walk-through of her pre-fall collection. “She was a person who wasn’t going to wear a corset, and she wore flats. Just the way she approached nature and her subjects is fascinating to me.”
That fascination led to an investigative trip to Santa Fe and O’Keeffe’s famed Ghost Ranch, from which Burch drew inspiration for her lineup. It features clean, unfettered silhouettes with hints the artist’s own style — crisp shirtdresses, an unfussy smocked number, subtle Japanese touches. From O’Keeffe’s work, Burch took saturated shades of warm, russets and reds played against sober navy, ivory black and white. She also incorporated abstract prints, bold stripes, cowhide and unfussy decorative elements such as mirror embroideries for an aura of casual confidence. Burch also worked in the occasional embroidered slipdress. Whether a nod to O’Keeffe’s New York years or merely

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Valentino RTW and Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — A day after unveiling a new retail concept at its Ginza flagship store, Valentino staged its first runway show in Japan since the Eighties, with creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli also showing women’s wear and men’s wear together for the first time.
“In Japan and in the world today, I don’t think you feel such a difference between genders,” the designer said. “It’s a different way of working, but the philosophy behind men and women I think is the same. So the clothes are different, a different wardrobe, but the values are the same.”
Piccioli drew on classic couture detailing for women and tailoring for men, but reimagined them in a more modern way that is more appropriate for every day.
“I didn’t want to do streetwear or daywear generically,” he said. “I wanted to get the identity of the house, but going into the street.”
The result was a pre-fall collection that struck a perfect balance between red-carpet drama and practicality. Many of the most iconic codes of Valentino could be found yet refreshed. Flowers, such as those that adorned the dress Marisa Berenson was photographed in for Vogue in 1968, showed up as tiny buds adorning a knit dress with rows

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Jil Sander RTW Pre-Fall 2019

Lucie and Luke Meier continue to reshape the image of the Jil Sander label with a balance between elegance and coolness. Those customers who cried after Phoebe Philo exited Celine will find plenty of options here to satisfy their needs for revamped minimalism — long a Sander signature, going back to the days of the brand’s founder.
Generous yet graphic shapes, sculptural yet simple silhouettes, straightforward yet comforting messages — the designers played with contrasting forces, which they balanced in a wardrobe translating an idea of intellectual, elevated and empowered femininity.
The Meiers like to play with a sense of coziness, from the roomy cashmere coats layered over mannish suits and the flocked ample tops and dresses worked in wallpaper-like patterns to the super soft oversize padded outerwear wrapping around the body.
Checkered blankets became sophisticated fringed tops and coats, while floral eyelet brought a feminine touch to chic separates with a sartorial feel.
A hint of discreet eccentricity was added with the patchwork of striped motifs, rendered on graphic shirts, crewneck tops, pants with buttons running down the legs and pencil skirts, highlighting the playful side of the Jil Sander woman.

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Etro Pre-Fall 2019

“Artsy Craftsy” was the name of Etro’s pre-fall collection. “The collection is inspired by strong women such as art collectors who like to travel and love bold colors, patterns and unique techniques,” said the brand’s women’s wear creative director Veronica Etro, highlighting the artistic spirit she infused into her lineup. This visually impactful flair, conveyed with a flamboyant métissage of paisley motifs, floral graphics, jacquard drawings and bold colorblocking, refreshed the nomadic attitude traditionally associated with the Milanese brand.
While playing with rich fabrics, prints and textures, Etro kept the silhouettes clean and linear. Eye-catching patchwork coats and jackets, including a blazer crafted from a tactile, 3-D material and trimmed with contrasting piping, were matched with cropped, slightly flared denim pants or fluid, silk trousers showing asymmetric prints running down the legs.
The breezy dresses had a vibrant feel, evoking Latin American rhythms, while elegant styles in solid black, including a chic belted evening jacket cut from a technical fabric and a cashmere coat, revealed subtle tone-on-tone decorations for a more discreet take on Etro’s signature maximalist style.

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Burberry Men’s and Women’s Autumn/Winter 2019 Pre-Collection

Riccardo Tisci has just begun to make his mark on Burberry, so it’s no surprise that he’s traveling the path set out in September, doing women’s and men’s clothing for multiple generations and moments in the day.
Burberry’s chief creative officer said he wanted this collection to be a continuation of the story he began telling earlier this year. “I’m focusing on establishing our codes through archive prints, house colors and iconic outerwear, while cementing the new themes I set out last season.”
Tisci built on his beloved animal motifs: Gorilla faces stared out from T-shirts while unicorns galloped over a padded, silk shawl. A leopard collar curled around the neck of a Dalmatian print car coat while leather bridle straps, a nod to the old Burberry knight-on-horseback logo, adorned trenches and suit jackets. A faux patchwork shearling coat bowed to the house’s new anti-fur policy.
The new TB monogram, which Tisci unveiled earlier this year, was out in force, transformed into dark green camouflage for a hoodie, shorts and a cape, and in a more delicate iterations on scarves, satin skirts and silk blouses. The intertwined TB popped as a big logo on a punchy orange puffer vest, while a shadowy TB motif

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Kylie Jenner Teases Her 2019 Calendar With Some Racy and Retro Photos

Kylie Jenner, 2019 CalendarKylie Jenner is giving makeup fans a big gift this Black Friday.
The Kylie Cosmetics creator announced last week that she and big sis Kim Kardashian are teaming up for a collaboration…


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Alexander McQueen Resort 2019

A Victorian seaside breeze blew through this collection, which was filled with contrasting elements: hard and soft, chunky and delicate, tailored and fluid. Among Sarah Burton’s inspirations was the British paleontologist Mary Anning, the British shoreline and the era’s obsession for collecting and categorizing bits of nature. There was broderie anglaise everywhere, worked into long white dresses, tunic tops or short ruffle skirts. All that demureness was balanced by leather corset belts, harness tops or thick cashmere sweaters. Other dresses came as sheer lacy knits as delicate as lingerie, with ruffles, bell sleeves or breezy tiers on the skirts. Tailoring had a whiff of Victoriana, too, as in a shell print suit layered over a sheer lacy blouse. A long military coat with a slashed waist had an abstract Union Jack pattern and resembled something that might have washed ashore in a shipwreck.

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Spring 2019 Trend: Well Suited

Long synonymous with the working world, suits assume a more playful élan for spring as designers tweak classic tailoring and blend in streetwear elements.

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Clandestine Devices’ Kimberly Faubel Earns 2 Noms for 2019 XBIZ Exec Awards

Kimberly Faubel, Clandestine Devices’ Director of Operations, has been honored with two XBIZ Exec Awards nominations representing the retail market for 2019.
XBIZ.com – Pleasure & Retail

Roland Mouret Resort 2019

Roland Mouret is eager for his woman to kick back, relax – or run around – with these fluid, draped clothes, which are meant for all-day or all-night wear.
Mouret described these pieces as “a best companion, a best friend” and said he wants his women to exhale into them. The collection was colorful and meant for movement, with sporty touches such as knits and sleeveless jackets with flashes of perforated fabric and a stretchy lining for a silver sequin gown, with a slit up the front. “You can run in it, move around and dance in it. You can live with this dress,” said the designer.
He worked bouclé stretch into a tailored suit and a fitted skirt and offered up a softly-structured, single–breasted trench with a belted waist. Other athletic touches came in the form of a ribbed knit tank dress and a languid jumpsuit with a stretchy waist, and loose tabard knits in bright colors. Things got even more comfortable with pajama–like tops and jackets that were draped at the back, and long tunic dresses with detachable skirts.

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Neglect Adult Patients RTW Spring 2019

Name: Neglect Adult Patients
Main message: Designer Junnosuke Watanabe has a diverse background, having studied political science and economics at Waseda University and performed as a member of a Japanese music group. For his first runway show, he played on his unusual brand name and turned out a hospital-themed collection, even sending out models in mint green gowns and scrub suits. There were also T-shirts and sweatshirts with slogans such as “Touch me, I’m heavy sick” and “Medical play.” He filled out the offering with a series of shorts and jackets in red plaid, leopard print and ath-leisure fabrics.
The result: Despite some odd English phrases, the clothes were pedestrian and showed Watanabe’s inexperience, although he’ll likely find customers among his fans. But it’s not clear that he needed a runway show to do it.

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Mitsuru Okazaki RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Yohji Yamamoto alum Mitsuru Okazaki’s brand is only in its second season, but it is already establishing itself as one to watch during Tokyo Fashion Week. The designer is adept at creating unexpected shapes out of simple textiles, such as the denim skirts topped with petal-like layers or the white pants covered in pyramid-shaped puckers that he sent down his spring runway. He also did interesting things with concealed zippers, placing them on balloon sleeves and pant legs so that when zipped open they looked like multiple slits, sometimes in contrasting colors. Diagonal stripes and colorblocking gave movement to otherwise simple tapered trousers and button-down shirts.
The result: The collection was both cohesive and inventive, as well as casual and real-world friendly, making it a strong second effort. And unlike many designers who show in Tokyo, Okazaki demonstrated his ability to self-edit.

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Malamute RTW Spring 2019

Name: Malamute
Main message: Former knit designer Mari Odaka drew from her roots while also demonstrating her range with her spring collection, the first one she’s shown on Tokyo’s runways. The knits were many and varied, from oversize, mixed-texture sweaters to open knit dresses and crop tops with openings at the elbows. But she combined these with silky and velour blouses, sheer mesh pants, and loose-fitting denim for a contrast of textures. The lines were clean and the colors classic shades of navy, beige, white and red, while bits of fringe and lace created focal points.
The result: Odaka delivered a strong offering with a clear point of view and unique sensibility, proving she deserves a spot on Tokyo’s regular fashion week calendar.

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Mintdesigns RTW Spring 2019

Name: Mintdesigns
Main message: Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katsui gave their garden party-evoking collection a Space Age edge with tinsel wigs, Mylar visors and headscarves, and simple black cubes on their stark white runway. They showed loose, ankle-length dresses and skirts in sheer mesh or botanical prints, paired with fringed knits, wide herringbone striped tunics and linen suits. A few all-black looks, some with dark leopard-print pants or metallic accents, kept it from feeling too sweet or predictable.
The result: The easy shapes and soft textiles would be right at home at any picnic, but unexpected accents kept it feeling fresh, modern and urban.

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Christopher Kane Resort 2019

The designer took Tokyo’s dark side as his theme for this racy collection of neon sign colors, and textures and silhouettes that nodded to the city’s myriad sex clubs. The rubberized red lace dress and matching coat encapsulated the dark and slightly sinister mood of the collection, which was shot at night by Laurence Ellis.
Lacy lingerie dresses with barely there, rounded skirts had a Goth feel, as did a see-through black dress layered over a bright purple bra. There were some razor-sharp edges, too, in the form of pointed, jutting lapels on a black, rhinestone-edged satin coat and sporty tailored jacket. Softness came in the form of a two-tone hoodie with “More Baby More” written in iridescent letters across the front and a long and billowy white shirt proclaiming that universal truth: “Sh** Happens.”
During a walk-through, Kane said Tokyo has always offered “endless inspiration for me,” adding that his love of subversion is “never at the expense of the clothes. I want to empower women when they put on my work.”

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Ksenia Schnaider RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ksenia Schnaider
Main message: Ksenia Schnaider’s Ukrainian resort-themed collection was a breath of fresh air during a largely subdued Tokyo Fashion Week. Its kitschy vibe and beachy influences translated into a fun collection of urban cool-girl clothes. The designer said she was inspired by the makeup and high heel-wearing beachgoers from her home country. She sent out sequin-encrusted T-shirt dresses, Hawaiian sunset-print shirts, and denim with unfinished edges and plenty of cargo pockets. A standout fur-like frayed denim jacket closed the show.
The result: With high energy, a clear theme and a fresh feeling, the collection was one of the most promising of the first half of the week, and showed that the designer doesn’t take herself too seriously.

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Hare RTW Spring 2019

Name: Hare
Main message: A stark white runway got pops of bright greens, yellows and blues as Hare’s models walked in sporty mesh dresses, straight-leg pants, ankle-length skirts and bomber jackets. The silhouettes were familiar but the brand, designed by a team, has a large digital following, proving its commercial appeal. A head-to-toe shibori tie-dye look on denim and chambray, and a satin jumpsuit in a marbled paint print stood out, while details such as fanny packs and large cargo pockets hinted at a Nineties theme.
The result: While the pieces themselves were not particularly exciting, the styling and accessories helped to elevate them slightly, and the bright colors contrasting with black and white felt fresh.

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Jenny Fax RTW Spring 2019

Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: “An ordinary girl from a small town is going to buy a flower print dress for her date. That is so romantically sad,” said Shueh Jen-Fang’s show notes. Prone to taking inspiration from childhood themes and experiences, the designer made this collection a grown-up storybook tale. Spanning clown-like jumpsuits with exaggerated shoulders to sweet floral or pastel dresses with huge pockets, it permeated humor. But there were also plenty of less innocent details, like dresses, skirts and long fringed shorts worn with buttons and zippers undone to show the navel, or satin thong underwear attached to the outside of frocks and extending all the way up to the shoulders. Tiny cropped jackets, an oversize, stonewashed denim double-breasted blazer, and mismatched sleeves played with proportion.
The result: As the last show of Tokyo’s spring fashion week, it did not disappoint, cleverly mixing together unique yet wearable pieces with more theatrical, conceptual ones.

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2019

Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s shows have come to be known as a highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week, and this season was no different. Since they began staging runway shows, they have honed their style so that each collection is fun and uplifting, and stylish with a hint of humor. The theme for spring was “vibrant,” which was clearly illustrated through their diverse color palette.
The designers layered sheer T-shirts over solid ones, sheer bomber jackets over button-down shirts, and sheer shorts over khaki ones. Bright neon trim appeared on the cuffs of dress shirts and at the back of trenchcoats, and panels of contrasting fabric were added to moto jackets and short-sleeved shirts. A series of color-blocked leggings and body-hugging jumpsuits in mixed prints were worn under more formal pieces such as blazers and toggle coats.
From socks with sporty drawcord tops to bags made by Outdoor Products, Karrimor and Speedo, the accessories rounded out the collection with fun and function.

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Figue RTW Spring 2019

Stephanie von Watzdorf was awash in the afterglow of the Meghan Markle effect when presenting her spring Figue collection. The Duchess of Sussex wore a floral dress from the collection for her first speech on the royal tour in Fiji earlier this week. “She’s in Fiji, which is one of my dream destinations, and she’s talking about women’s empowerment and education, which is so on my radar, aside from animals and outfits,” said von Watzdorf, adding that Markle’s effect on sales is real.
As for the spring collection, von Watzdorf titled it Nomad Love. She culled decorative elements — stripes, beading, florals, embroidery — from nomadic tribes the world over and coalesced them into pajama tops and bottoms, silk and cotton caftans, peasant tops and robes that fit the bill for pretty, bohemian style whether you’re wandering the globe or going about your everyday life and want something that telegraphs “summer.” What felt newest were airy, voluminous cotton dresses in polka dots, a quilted ikat robe and a great pearl and evil eye jewelry collaboration with Beck Jewels.

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2019

Two-and-a-half years after Tory Burch launched Tory Sport, the brand’s performance results are coming in. “It’s interesting to start to see what the business is coming to,” Burch said last week during a preview of the spring collection. “We’re starting to see what makes sense, less is more, and what is working for us.” The collection is not just cute, colorful and branded, although it is definitively all of those things — it’s also become a viable player in terms of performance wear. Yoga and running, particularly the seamless pieces, are doing well, as is golf.
For spring, Burch amped up the color with the Bauhaus principles of form and function in mind, working in fuchsia, red, green, blue and white in graphic stripes and lots of chevron. The clothes she wore to play sports in high school in the Seventies were on her mind, so chevron track jackets and silky soccer jerseys were updated in lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics as opposed to the pure polyester the vintage styles came in. Weatherproof outerwear stood out, as did a few fabulous chunky hand knit cotton sweaters that fell into Tory Sport’s “coming and going” category. There was a new tennis skort and

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Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Rabd Men’s Spring 2019

Name: Rabd
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.

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Memuse RTW Spring 2019

Name: Memuse
Main message: Risa Aizawa evoked a child’s dress-up party with her latest show, seating a group of models in nude undergarments, neutral colored heels and blonde bob wigs on the floor in the center of her runway. Around them walked more models, who wore her fairytale-esque designs. With sweet, girly looks such as tulle or lace dresses covered in bows, frills and ruffles shown alongside more casual, real-world pieces including see-through raincoats and an oversize, gathered T-shirt dress printed with a cartoon character with eyes in her hair, it was like a modern-day “Alice in Wonderland.” Aizawa’s pastel palette and opulent textures, which included velour and jacquard, were contrasted by an out-of-place ankle-length, frilled frock in bright magenta, yellow, orange, blue and green.
The result: Considering her background working in a “maid café” and as a Japanese pop star, it’s not surprising that Aizawa’s design sensibility draws heavily from Tokyo subculture. And while the collection is unlikely to garner a widespread following, it’s sure to appeal to her fans and target audience.

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Shohei RTW Spring 2019

Name: Shohei
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek lived in Japan for two years, designing for a Japanese company. Not only did she meet her Japanese husband during this time, but the experience also shaped her design sensibility. She focuses on unique materials, including both sustainable fabrics and innovative performance textiles “in order to create fashion with a dynamic attitude.” In her debut Tokyo show, she used tech fabrics to craft color-blocked parkas, shorts and tube tops in navy, black, beige and orange. While Pek designs for both genders, the men’s offerings mimicked the designs for women, including jackets with zip-off sleeves and pants that unzipped to create shorts. Asymmetrical cutting and folding techniques added an edge to athleisure-style tube tops and dresses with drawstring details, while shirting fabrics were layered with jersey and other textiles to create deconstructed blouses.
The result: Pek’s European interpretation of Japanese style was an interesting addition to Tokyo Fashion Week, and demonstrated that the designer has potential to succeed both at home and abroad.

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Lautashi RTW Spring 2019

Name: Lautashi
Main message: Model Emi Suzuki launched her brand last year, and quickly gained a following on social media. This season was the first time she participated in Tokyo Fashion Week, thanks to support from Amazon through its At Tokyo program. Rather than a traditional runway show, she chose to do a presentation in collaboration with a new media artist, saying that she wanted attendees to be able to see the detail in her clothes more clearly. Inspired by the night sky, she used zodiac, swirly galaxy and aurora borealis prints, as well as solids in both deep tones and soft, shimmering shades. She chose classic shapes like pencil skirts, wide-leg trousers, camisoles and belted jackets.
The result: The collection had obvious commercial appeal, but Suzuki didn’t take any risks with it and there was a sense that it was missing a certain polish.

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Wewill RTW Spring 2019

Name: Wewill
Main message: Hidetaka Fukuzono blurred gender lines with his spring offering, showing blouse-like tunics, satin pants and loose-fitting jackets in soft white, ivory, olive, khaki and gray. His textiles were also soft and consisted largely of natural materials. But linen suits and jackets with oversize pockets lent a throw-back, safari vibe.
The result: The collection didn’t offer anything new and the styling was uninventive, but the clothes were high quality and utilized some beautiful fabrics.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2019

For the past few seasons, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara have been reinterpreting classic military pieces, and this spring, they drew inspiration from Thirties and Forties coats and pants from American, British and French armed forces. Their show was held in a warehouse near Tokyo Bay, and the simple raw concrete backdrop allowed the clothes to take center stage.
The designers put their own modern take on salvage parkas, chambray shirts, field jackets and pants, flight jackets, motorcycle pants and more. They mixed these with pleated chiffon skirts, sheer mesh dresses, ankle-length knit smocks, denim jackets and cotton dresses. They also showed the third season of their collaboration with The North Face, which included aggressively cropped pullovers, long rain coats, leggings, sweatshirts and T-shirts. While most of the palette centered around neutral shades of khaki, olive, navy, gray, white and black, a few calf-length dresses in red or blue and white stripes provided contrast and added a subtle nod to the nautical.
While the military influences were clear, the collection was still modern and urban, with well-cut silhouettes and quality fabrics, creating the ideal wardrobe for an urban nomad’s commute. And thanks to the pieces by The North Face, it’s also suitable for

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St. John RTW Spring 2019

St. John presented a more streamlined and sleek collection during an intimate cocktail presentation in place of a showroom appointment for spring 2019. The brand felt even more elevated with mostly mannequins dressed in neutrals at the forefront of the floor-to-ceiling walls of the Glass Houses penthouse venue.
“We thought highlighting black, navy and white just sort of synthesized and streamlined it to the silhouette and form — to highlight slacks, jackets, dresses. There’s tons more color as well though,” explained Tom Jarrold, the brand’s senior vice president of marketing, branding and communications.
The silhouettes were light and easy: a long caftan continued from resort was updated in white, but also offered short and in fiery red. Transparencies made for important details in the collection on dresses and blazers. The brand is making due diligence to keep new collections close to its core DNA — continuing long line and tweed jackets, a wide array of “New Standard” basics, and dresses — while maintaining a less embellished, tightly edited and focused approach going forward.

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Ihnn RTW Spring 2019

Name: Ihnn
Main message: South Korean-born, Tokyo-based designer Chisung Ihn made his runway debut outdoors at his alma mater, Bunka Fashion Graduate University. The rain that came down as a drum corps signaled the start and end of the show and only added to the atmosphere.
While intended for women, the collection was partially modeled by males in bright red lipstick, a shade that was mirrored on trenchcoats, bustier tops and open knits. Other colors were equally bold, and textures ranged from sheer organza to thick pleather. Sporty pieces included a striped knit dress, tech leggings, sports bras and a skirt with multiple drawstrings.
The result: While the silhouettes were not new, the designer put his own spin on them through color and texture. But the styling was uninventive and the collection grew repetitive with too many looks.

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Spring 2019 Trend: Picture This

In salute to the Instagram age, photo prints made a big showing in the spring collections. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez marked their Proenza Schouler homecoming by decorating some basic materials, like cotton shirting, with photos of New York.

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Stair RTW Spring 2019

Name: Stair
Main message: Ryoko Mukasa chose a bright, sun-filled venue for her brand’s inaugural runway show, the softly filtered green of the trees through a wall of glass setting the tone for her collection. She showed loose lavender skirts and pantsuits, bright pink and coral-colored gathered satin jumpsuits, and a layered aquamarine chiffon dress. But her strongest looks had a subtle edginess to them, such as an off-the-shoulder blouse in crisp white shirting, with a thin lace underlay at the neckline, or a checked bias-cut skirt paired with a black-and-white open-knit sweater.
The result: There were some strong pieces, but as a whole the collection felt disjointed, as if the designer tried too hard to incorporate too many contrasting elements.

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Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2019

An earthy majesty defines Sarah Burton’s work for Alexander McQueen. It’s raw, intimate and inspired by Britain’s rich pagan past.
For spring, Burton and her design staff visited several hallowed shrines of British paganism, including Silbury Hill and Avebury Stone Circle, sites where humans left indelible marks on nature, and where now, hundreds of years later, the two forces seem indelibly joined. She came away with a new take on her compelling, long-running heroine. “She’s always pagan, I suppose,” Burton said backstage, “rooted to the ground, rooted to the earth.” She is also typically self-sufficient, determined and powerful in her femininity, yet vulnerable, too, a concept that strikes a deep chord in our fractured world. Often, she projects an archetypal warrior goddess whose strength and gentleness manifest in unison, via, on one hand, strict tailoring, corsetry and harnesses, and on the other, gentle dresses with a look of ancient-world dishabille.
For spring, Burton focused on “a woman’s journey, the moments that she experiences in life, so birth, christening, sisterhood, motherhood, friendship. The idea of expressing feelings and being empowered by emotion and vulnerability.” All while being exquisitely turned out.
Burton is the reverse of the ready-to-wear designers who show during couture; she is

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Nicolas Andreas Taralis RTW Spring 2019

To counter what he sees as the darkness of the times, Nicolas Andreas Taralis moved away from his habitual somber register, injecting his spring collection with lightness and color in a sculptural way.
Rectangular strips of technical fabric were sewn together to evoke parachutes in free fall, moving with the body in transparent strips on column and bustier dresses in white and pale yellow, scarlet and fuchsia; billowing as a pale yellow puff-ball skirt with suspenders, paired with a T-shirt that read “Heroes” — in reference to David Bowie.
Tailored pieces like a dark green nylon satin suit and a black cotton jacket were crafted from panels of fabric, leaving gashes in which the wind would rustle.
Laser-cut foliage from a military register created texture on a unisex black coat intended to evoke a shell that protects the body, a motif reprised elsewhere on a white tailored jacket, its lining showing through, and on T-shirts and shift dresses. Elsewhere, Taralis delivered a more overt political message with printed slogans like “surrender” and “disobey” on bright Japanese sports mesh vests and photo prints of protests on his jersey T-shirts, adding a touch of street to what was an interesting, quirky lineup.

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Ximon Lee Spring RTW 2019

The designer in the gender-fluid, handiwork-intensive collection explored the concept of the east interpreted through a western filter. In particular, he looked to the creations of an American carpet manufacturer from the Thirties “who copied Chinese rugs.”
The designer challenged himself in the handiwork-intensive, textured collection, working with a weird palette of hues including deep purple, pistachio and mint that was outside of his comfort zone. The show set — a dingy garage with industrial lights and a wet floor sprinkled with eucalyptus oil — was equally strange.
A glitched jacquard suit in a carpet motif had a “foggy” aspect to it. Elsewhere, an eye-catching mesh dress came needle-punched with yellow silk thread, playing on the idea of forcing organic fibers into synthetic fibers.
The showpiece was an elaborate black and silver sequined robe dress, produced by hand in a workshop in Shanghai, bearing the face of an imaginary avatar.
A matching shirt and pant in a liquid mesh bonded with suiting fabric to create a wet-look effect, which was at once structured and light with an iridescence, offered the most compelling and wearable spin on the appearance-versus-reality theme.

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Dušan RTW Spring 2019

Understated luxury is the code word for Dusan Paunovic’s collection, constructed from high-end fabrics that are the building blocks for his cathedral of minimalism. For spring, the Serbian-born designer worked in a muted color palette of neutrals, working a raw-edged beige and cream herringbone linen, for example, into an elegant yet relaxed spaghetti-strap dress.
Superlight cashmere and silk knits, wide-legged linen culottes and Japanese hand-pressed lamé skirts, all staples in the Dušan vocabulary, were the backbone of the lineup. The outerwear was also strong, as demonstrated with a camel Loro Piana water-repellent cashmere coat with lining and contrasting Mao collar in white neoprene.
His patchworks of supersoft silk scarf prints in a palette of navy, forest green and dusty pink, used on flowing pants and sleeveless tops with a simple tie at the back of the neck, worked a treat.

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DC Essentials Guide 2019 – Various Authors

Various Authors - DC Essentials Guide 2019  artwork

DC Essentials Guide 2019

Various Authors

Genre: Graphic Novels

Publish Date: October 2, 2018

Publisher: DC Comics

Seller: DC Comics.


For decades, DC has been the perfect starting place for anyone interested in graphic novels, with genre-defining books such as Watchmen, Batman: The Killing Joke, V for Vendetta, DC Super Hero Girls and Mister Miracle. Now, we’ve created the perfect resource for any reader with the DC Essential Graphic Novels 2019 catalog. The 25 best graphic novels to begin with are here, alongside groups of great starting-point books for your favorite characters, such as Wonder Woman, Batman, Superman, the Justice League and more! From DC Books for Young Readers to DC Black Label, MAD, DC Vertigo and Jinxworld, DC has the most diverse library of graphic novels in all of comics. The DC Essential Graphic Novels 2019 catalog makes it easy to find the perfect story for every reader!

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A.P.C. RTW Spring 2019

Jean and Judith Touitou took another step this season and moved outside the label’s intimate Rue Madame headquarters to show their coed lineup. They headed to a cavernous garage, emptied of cars and outfitted with roving spotlights that announced the start of the show.
The first look set the upbeat, rockabilly tone. Down the concrete car ramp came a sleek, jeans pants-and-shirt ensemble in dark blue with white stitching, a charming Elvis coiffe and pointy white boots, keys jangling from the belt. The bright blue bandana tightly wrapped around the model’s neck allowed a peek of the bright yellow T-shirt underneath.
It’s increasingly a question of survival-of-the-fittest in apparel these days and, not one to be left behind, the label is hankering after growth.
With their spring collection, the couple nudged their specific breed of easy and wearable elegance into younger territory, with their offer of jeans, colorful sweaters, smart outerwear and belt bags stamped with an A, a P or a C.
Dresses were cut sensibly, continuing in the same register as last season — non fussy, elegant and #metoo age-appropriate. These included a checked trenchcoat dress and several prairie dresses. The label’s emphasis on outerwear was expanded to include brighter colors, and

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First Second Winter 2019 Digital Sampler – Graham Annable, Mike Cavallaro, Cathy G. Johnson, Jason Viola, Zack Giallongo, MK Reed, Jonathan Hill, Gene Luen Yang, Mike Holmes, George O’Connor, Falynn Koch, Chris Schweizer, Colleen AF Venable, Ellen T. Crenshaw, Kevin Panetta, Savanna Ganucheau, Tiffanie DeBartolo, Pascal Dizin, Lisa Reist, Guillaume Singelin, Alison Wilgus, Lucy Knisley & Box Brown

Graham Annable, Mike Cavallaro, Cathy G. Johnson, Jason Viola, Zack Giallongo, MK Reed, Jonathan Hill, Gene Luen Yang, Mike Holmes, George O'Connor, Falynn Koch, Chris Schweizer, Colleen AF Venable, Ellen T. Crenshaw, Kevin Panetta, Savanna Ganucheau, Tiffanie DeBartolo, Pascal Dizin, Lisa Reist, Guillaume Singelin, Alison Wilgus, Lucy Knisley & Box Brown - First Second Winter 2019 Digital Sampler  artwork

First Second Winter 2019 Digital Sampler

Graham Annable, Mike Cavallaro, Cathy G. Johnson, Jason Viola, Zack Giallongo, MK Reed, Jonathan Hill, Gene Luen Yang, Mike Holmes, George O’Connor, Falynn Koch, Chris Schweizer, Colleen AF Venable, Ellen T. Crenshaw, Kevin Panetta, Savanna Ganucheau, Tiffanie DeBartolo, Pascal Dizin, Lisa Reist, Guillaume Singelin, Alison Wilgus, Lucy Knisley & Box Brown

Genre: Graphic Novels

Publish Date: August 7, 2018

Publisher: First Second

Seller: Macmillan


First Second's graphic novel sampler for Winter 2019, including excerpts from award-winning authors and artists such as Gene Luen Yang, Box Brown, Ellen T. Crenshaw, and more!

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Ioannes Spring 2019 RTW

Johannes Boehl Cronau showed his spring collection on the ground floor of Lafayette Anticipations, where models mingled on a floor strewn with pink slips of paper, wearing opened-toed mules. He continued to expose midriffs, using thinly knit bra tops this time, which he paired with cycling shorts in the same material.
The designer has a sharp focus, training his efforts on a select assortment of silhouettes that emphasize his eye for detail; he said he hoped the collection would mark a “really good start for what we’re trying to do.”
Drawing influences from carpentry from his childhood in Germany, he made a luxurious version of a tool belt, one in shiny black leather, another one in gray, which he used to complete an all-gray look. The trousers were both refined and easy, with two short zippers running vertically on the front, matched with a knit bra top.
Black nylon trousers with zips and a few flaps turned out to be an opened-up boiler suit, which was worn with a lightly knit tank top. He used the same knit for an elongated dress that had loops hanging off of the bottom, like mini arm straps.
He slightly enlarged fisherman’s hats, which came in somber hues

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2019

Should fashion be political?
It’s a question that has consumed editors in a week dominated by the U.S. Senate Judiciary Committee’s hearing into sexual assault allegations against Supreme Court nominee Brett Kavanaugh. For better or for worse, in the era of #MeToo, a hemline is no longer just a hemline.
While some designers have shrugged off feminist readings of their collections, and others appeared to deliberately court controversy, Nicolas Ghesquière embraced the moment with his lineup of retro-futuristic clothes, shown in a maze of neon-lit tunnels set up in the courtyard of the Louvre Museum after dark.
“This is not a narrative collection. This is about my obsession to empower women,” he said after the show. “There were so many discussions the last months about the place of women, and I thought that this is really an intuition to want to give power when you are a designer.”
He did that by tapping into a few of his other obsessions: sci-fi imagery and exaggerated volumes. Dominican model Ambar Cristal Zarzuela, making her Paris debut, opened the show in an oversized blouson with mille feuille sleeves featuring photo prints of candy-colored artificial landscapes.
The sleeves were the connective tissue between his eclectic band of intergalactic explorers.

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Anton Belinskiy RTW Spring 2019

Ukrainian designer Anton Belinskiy’s first fashion show had religious airs. Incense burned on the steps inside the Palais de Tokyo, while some models sported wimples.
Belinskiy explored the concept of belief, whether religious or just as a way of giving meaning to life. He relied on the imagery of the Orthodox Church, in reference to his mother’s faith and his own trips to the local church in Kiev. Religious nods were given a pop-culture spin: tiny icons were printed on simple cotton T-shirts, while a rainbow-hued circular icon was depicted on a pink beaded crop top.
Models, both male and female, carried big sports bags. “When people retreat into religion, they pack up all their belongings and disappear,” explained the designer, who founded his brand in 2009. Film stills from “Adam and Eve” were printed on leggings, skirts and trousers. Some models wore seashell necklaces, other carried ceramic donation baskets.
The show was fast-paced and youthful, but the looks were a bit all over the place. An orange shiny jumpsuit was followed by a denim leotard worn with colorful leggings, then a Hawaiian shirt, finally a black deconstructed bustier dress. Despite this, the whole offering was energetic and exciting. The finalist for the

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Pihakapi RTW Spring 2019

Canadian designer Vejas Kruszewski, who won the LVMH Prix Spécial prize in 2016, chose to put his namesake brand on hold to focus on a new project. Now in its second season, Pihakapi, a brand developed in partnership with Italian leather manufacturer Pellemoda, blends high-quality leather with the 21-year-old-designer’s radical vision.
“Because the brand is leather-focused, I like to build the collection around the outerwear,” said Kruszewski at the presentation of his spring collection (the first offering was shown during men’s fashion week, Pihakapi being a unisex brand.)
A black leather trenchcoat featured details from this season’s key inspirations: mini leather horns recalling the anatomy of the stag beetle on the sleeves and a flame shaped cowboy collar. The same details were reworked on denim and jersey, as well as on a side-slit black slipdress, a welcome update to the wardrobe staple.
“I was really interested in reworking Western wear,” said the designer, gesturing to a white linen skirt with a black leather holster detail. He also created a pair of “refined chaps,” playing on the dichotomy between leather and fabric. The chocolate-colored leather added texture and serious flair to a pair of well-cut black trousers. Throwing in a couple of Grecian draped

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Inès de la Fressange RTW Spring 2019

The collection, presented in a salon at the Ritz Paris, was strangely wrinkled. Not to worry — it was all part of Inès de la Fressange’s vision of Parisian chic. “People are scared of linen and see it as a difficult fabric,” said the designer. “But I wanted to show that things needn’t be perfectly ironed. It gives the feeling that you’re still on holiday.”
Nevertheless the effect was scruffy, and diverted the attention from the stronger points of the collection. There was a pair of “new denim” straight leg trousers in dark blue linen, created in reaction to the Parisian heat wave; a cowboy style red shirt — “because you can look Parisian wearing a shirt from Texas” — and an elegant two-piece beige checked suit, that de la Fressange herself was wearing.
Masculine-inspired tailoring was as efficient as always, but the designer seemed tired of churning out the same old “Parisienne” ideal. “People always think that chic has to be conventional, when there isn’t necessarily a link between the two things,” she said. “I’m bored with conventionalism.”
In reaction to that, the collection went full Seventies, with colorful printed silk shirts and flared trousers. The whole offering seemed to miss the

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Kolor RTW Spring 2019

A campaign video filmed in Hollywood and a tacky karaoke bar on the outskirts of Tokyo served as the perfect backdrop for this fun, crafty collection, with the models sped up and slowed down.
The signature inventiveness of Junichi Abe, an experienced patternmaker, was in fine form with offbeat touches like an accumulation of fabric textures on a skirt, the haphazard embroidery on lace collars of sweaters, and lines of tape used to join layers to garments — including a red tulle layer on a black T-shirt — or rework volumes, giving a DIY spin.
A series of triple-layered hi-tech anoraks mixing colors and materials to create depth were terrific. More cute in mood were the colored marled knits with contrast lace accents.
The designer also revisited traditional checks in polyester on neo-geek shirts, with oversized shapes used throughout the collection.

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Anaïs Jourden RTW Spring 2019

Anaïs Mak captured the coming-of-age vibe she was after. Tucked into plush sofas ringing the runway, guests waited under the dimmed red lights of the club’s low ceilings, the carpet’s skull-and-flower pattern barely discernible.
But when the lights snapped on and the sentimental saxophone riff streamed out — George Michael’s “Careless Whisper,” what else? — the audience was thrust into her bedroom, or wherever she had a full-length mirror, some privacy and a closet stuffed with possibilities.
“I think the girl is exploring maturing,” said Mak, the Hong Kong-born and -based designer whose label is called Anaïs Jourden. “You see a slight ‘Lolita’ influence in the collection,” she added.
The models wore mostly dresses, occasionally with a trail of ruffles, often in a bias cut and strapless at times — one had lacing between the breasts. Wearing stiletto Barbie heels — patent leather with a puff of fake fur, no straps to secure an ankle — some teetered, while others strutted confidently, hair tied up in a tussled ponytail.
“We used to rely heavily on textures and volume,” said Mak, noting the aim was ease and fluidity this time. Speaking before the show, she pointed to a pencil-shaped dress made from cotton treated for

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Shiatzy Chen RTW Spring 2019

Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia continued to strip years off her brand in this fresh, sporty, youthful collection, with tracksuit tops spliced with lace bands and sneakers finishing off all the looks.
Lengths were mainly short, with the designer moving between clean cotton silhouettes and her signature lingerie styles, including frilly slips, sheer tulle petticoats and a pretty sheer black top mixing in polka dots.
The set, with its path of colored blocks printed with symbols from a Chinese game, lent a vague “Alice in Wonderland” mood, underscored by the innocent attitude of the collection, with some looks embroidered with animals.
Rabbits climbed across a silk bomber cut slightly longer at the back, while ducks in flight animated a more minimalist pairing of a white shirt with a T-shirt shape and a black zipped skirt. A black coat teamed with beasties. The designer also sent out pared-down takes on traditional dress with illustrated landscape scenes depicting bridges and storks.
It never tipped into kitsch territory, though, with Tsai-Hsia using discreet placements and tone-on-tone embroidery. It was charming, adding personality to the collection, and space to dream.

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Masha Ma RTW Spring 2019

Masha Ma kicked off her spring lineup with a shirtdress, which she described as “clinical, clean and sharp.” It was also very feminine, confirming this was an exercise in slate-cleaning. What followed marked a turn into a softer, more fluid and luxurious place with a collection that felt self assured.
She turned her back on the club scenes but her interests continue to lie in a strange, futuristic universe — and she referenced the film “Annihilation” for this season.
The color palette had less black and electric blue, but a lot of bright emerald green, yellow and safari hues. Outerwear remained an obsession, with ongoing support from sponsor Kolon Sport; highlights included a long, pale yellow rain coat with fin-like flaps jetting up off the back, a shiny emerald green bomber with oversize arms and a short tan rain jacket with a hood.
“I want my woman to be protected in my clothes but at the same time not restricted,” she said backstage before the show. She also noted the label has taken on casting director Barbara Nicoli, known for her work with Gucci, and that under new operating rules, aims for a beautiful and intellectual look.
“I want them to look intellectual, not

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Hyun Mi Nielsen RTW Spring 2019

Transporting her audience, as always, Hyun Mi Nielsen took to a darker place this season. Wearing strange wooden clogs with pointy toes and covered in studs — a collaboration with shoe designer Zoe Lee — models moved briskly around the room, the clip-clopping accompanied by the gentle clinking of swaying metal embellishments. Underneath the profusion of hardware, black leather, piercings and chokers — in motion, all of it — sat a compelling lineup of fresh silhouettes that conveyed beauty of an uncommon sort.
“I have this thing about light and dark,” she said, pointing to her childhood in Denmark where the winters are very dark and the summers are very light.
Still focused on her magpie collector, who can’t resist a shiny object that catches her eye, she obsessed over rivets. They decorated the clothing, gravitating to different parts of the body, covering an entire cape in one case and even stuck onto bare skin, broadening her territory.
Lightness came in the form of billowing silk, recalling her last haute couture collection — she now prefers to show her collections on the ready-to-wear calendar to better connect with clients. It came in a sparsely colored tie-dye with shades of brown and a light

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Lutz Huelle RTW Spring 2019

Lutz Huelle pounced on some classics and roped them into his game. He was hankering after more elegance this season and turned to bourgeois motifs like roses, polka dots and an alligator skin print, and eager to push these couture elements out into the street.
For a dressy coat — it was beautiful — he picked a red rose print set against a dark background that added vibrancy to the colors. Puffed up shoulders from last season pushed outwards a smidgen; sleeves were wide, stopping near the elbow; the waist was cinched.
“How would she wear it?” Huelle asked. “With a sweatshirt underneath to go shopping!”
The designer also thought about mothers and daughters raiding each other’s closets — not to mention the father’s wardrobe.
“This whole notion of old and new is completely gone, in a way, because a beautiful garment is a beautiful garment…there’s no rule about how people dress these days,” the designer observed backstage before the show.
Taking full advantage of this welcome state of affairs, he offered a lineup of deconstructed jean jackets, bombers with ruffles or drawn tight to the waist with a Fifties New Look flair, and, what he claimed to be his first jacquard cocktail dress. This,

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Off-White RTW Spring 2019

“Dress good to look good. Look good to feel good. And feel good to run fast!”
That quote from Olympic champion Florence Griffith Joyner holds particular resonance for Virgil Abloh, who after his collaboration with Nike and Serena Williams teamed up again with the sportswear giant for his spring Off-White ready-to-wear show. This time, he turned his attention to track and field, a theme that ran through his seasonal statement, from the racing bibs sent out as invitations to the stadium-themed set and the models themselves. The designer tapped eight female star athletes to walk in his show at the Garage Amelot in Paris.
Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner opened the show in crisp white shirts and short skirts. Kaia Gerber was close behind, in a shirtdress with a tank top pieced together from Nike socks. With their metronomic clips, the models easily outpaced the athletes, overtaking some as they wound their way around the track, while a jumbotron flashed their names and countries of origin.
Some of the sports stars blended in effortlessly. Vashti Cunningham, a U.S. high jumper and the daughter of former NFL quarterback Randall Cunningham, flexed her 6-foot, 1-inch frame in a tiered cream tent dress, paired with white

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Guy Laroche RTW Spring 2019

For the most part, Richard René stuck to his palette, black and white, as announced in the show notes. These came in the form of a handwritten note signed by Guy Laroche observing the dark shadows and overly bright lights of a Parisian nightclub in the Eighties, at 6 a.m. Something was scribbled about a broken vase, adding to the mystery and setting imaginations on a spin.
The lineup turned out to be a curious exercise in contrasts. Large, angular patches of black and white were transposed or stuck together in odd and surprising ways. A simple white sleeveless dress had a black sleeve pinned to one side while a suit jacket was black on the left and white on the right. There was an impeccably tailored trenchcoat, all white — no wait, it was entirely black in the back. And so it went, startling at times, but also prompting gasps of wonderment at one point.
Heading into dressier territory, René continues to experiment as he seeks the right register for a brand that has befuddled a succession of designers in recent years. Recognizing the challenge, he sent down one piece with a message on the back: “Work in progress.”

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Serenity (2019)

Serenity (2019) Opens Friday, Jan 25, 2019

Baker Dill is a fishing boat captain leading tours off a tranquil, tropical enclave called Plymouth Island. His quiet life is shattered, however, when his ex-wife Karen tracks him down with a desperate plea for help.

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Koché RTW Spring 2019

At a time when the United Nations is meeting in New York, discord between nations has rarely appeared so high. Christelle Kocher has other ideas.
Her spring collection was an ode to unity, under the guise of a celebration of women worldwide. That could be a soignée Parisienne, strutting down Avenue Montaigne in a fuchsia blazer, or a young girl in Indonesia going out with friends in a sequined top and matching headscarf, paired with pleated track pants.
“It’s an homage to diversity, a rallying call in which fashion can be a good vector of unification,” Kocher said backstage after the show, held at the French Communist Party headquarters in Paris, a saucer-shaped building designed by Oscar Niemeyer in the Sixties.
Kocher has always connected with a more nuanced vision of Paris than most people who live here experience — the result of shuttling between her job as artistic director of Maison Lemarié, part of Chanel’s stable of specialty ateliers, and her own studio in the multiethnic neighborhood of Belleville in the northeast of Paris.
This season, she broadened that vision to places she has visited, and those she dreams of discovering. A black bodysuit was embroidered with silver sequins in geometric motifs inspired

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Alexis Mabille RTW Spring 2019

Alexis Mabille ventured into new territory this season — tiptoed, rather — offering a few pieces in black.
“I usually work with midnight blue, but this time I felt like adding black — but always with bold colors,” he was quick to note. The black clothing served as an accent to the collection, he suggested, pointing to a few items tucked in front of a ground-sweeping dress in bright yellow.
One of the rare black pieces was an off-the-shoulder shirtdress, cinched at the waist, in an airy satin organza, its puffed out sleeves an elegant nod to his couture roots.
It is becoming a tradition for Mabille to present his ready-to-wear collection in an intimate, by-appointment setting — part of his project of refocusing the collections around high-end daywear while pre-collections move further into dressier, evening territory.
Ever playful, Mabille tooled around with materials, making two vastly different dresses using the same pattern. Here was a light, airy day dress in striped blue cotton poplin; suddenly, in a silky satin in midnight blue with back lace trim, it took on a sultry tone for evening. There were quite a few of these silky, lacy numbers, peeking out from the more regal, sculptured pieces.
The designer

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Winonah RTW Spring 2019

Like many designers and brands this season, Winonah de Jong gave in to her wanderlust, and took a trip — a safari to be precise. She sent out a glamorous — and travel-friendly — collection that was full of easy, classic pieces including cotton blouses, jumpsuits and safari jackets. De Jong put her personal spin on the trench, slipping a belt on the inside so that the coat could be cinched and still remain drapey at the front. A cinnamon cotton safari suit came with an elastic nipped waist and a midi skirt, while a jumpsuit in a similar shade was belted at the waist.
A camouflage print crept over long and languid trousers, a jumpsuit and a skinny minidress with long sleeves and built-up shoulders — a Winonah signature. Other summer-ready looks included a pink cotton dress with ruffle sleeves that gathered at the elbow, and a similar style done in white with embroidered black animal shapes hand-drawn by de Jong. Those black-on-white, naif drawings were a highlight of the collection, with a menagerie of African beasts striding across pieces including a ruffle-front skirt, high-waist trousers and a blouse with puff sleeves.

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Herno RTW Spring 2019

Color is the news at Herno, said Claudio Marenzi, chief executive officer of the Italian outerwear company. A range of reds, from crimson to burgundy; plus fuchsia, periwinkle and kiwi green added a vibrant edge to big parkas and capes.
As usual, Herno invested in research and materials, with a new waterproof parka made in cotton with a polyurethane coating. Inside, rainbow-striped, thermo-taped seams completed the look. A drawstring with gold metal details added a feminine touch to the functional garment. An oversize bomber was updated in a new nylon sailcloth that reversed to a taffeta voile. A number of light down vests presented an intriguing watercolor pattern of people silhouetted on a white background.
Marenzi was also upbeat about the performance of the new Herno flagship opened in mid-August and officially unveiled with an event during Milan Fashion Week. “With a space on Via Montenapoleone that is five times our former unit in Via Sant’Andrea, there is a lot more traffic and visibility,” he said. A new flagship will open in Paris on rue Saint-Honoré in October, he added.
 

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Act N°1 RTW Spring 2019

According to the show notes, Act N°1, making its debut at Milan Fashion Week, the brand wanted to raise awareness of the child marriage issue affecting Georgia, the native country of Galib Gassanoff, who designs the brand with Luca Lin. The mission was absolutely noble yet it was difficult to understand how they translated their condemnation into the clothes.
The designers used tulle and several fabrics inspired by wedding dresses, and street versions of white wedding gowns were presented on the catwalk. However, the collection was more about manipulated silk slipdresses and wrap tulle styles featuring broken chains, inserts and draping details, distressed denim pants and shirts crafted in bizarre silhouettes. The grungy collection was more suitable for rebellious city girls, rather than for taking a stand on social issues.

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Erika Cavallini RTW Spring 2019

A Mediterranean sensuality infused Erika Cavallini’s spring collection, with the designer working a warm palette of spice tones for a fuss-free wardrobe that hinted at exotic travel.
She draped and knotted fabrics, and lopped off sleeves, revealing a glimpse of shoulder here, a flash of hip bone there, but her concept of seduction was not demonstrative. There was a quiet ease to the flowing tunic tops, vestal gowns and mannish pants coupled with oversized shirts.
Slouchy cream pants were cinched with a triple-wrap brown leather belt, while a plain rope belt lent a rustic edge to a flowing caftan in a patchwork of vintage silk scarf prints.
Outfits like a burlap sundress and a pajama-striped jumpsuit came with giant matching totes. They might not meet cabin baggage restrictions, but somehow, you felt these  confident women would get where they’re going regardless.

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Annakiki RTW Spring 2019

Annakiki may not be a household name, but Chinese designer Anna Yang clearly has the ear of the creative set.
Having dressed Beyoncé’s daughter Blue Ivy in a metallic ruffled dress for the Wearable Art Gala earlier this year, Yang has found another fan in British singer Ebony Bones, who attended the label’s spring show in Milan.
“It’s really nice to support female designers, and I think it’s intriguing that she’s done so well in Europe and she’s not European. It’s definitely a juxtaposition of different cultures: East meets West, and very fun as well,” said Bones, who wore Annakiki on the cover of her critically acclaimed recent album “Nephilim.”
The inspiration flows both ways. Yang’s spring collection, titled “Fashion Glitch,” channeled her love of electronic music with club-kid gear in shiny fabrics and fluo shades.
This was fashion for the Instagram age: think an acid green liquid-effect biker jacket with ruffled mariachi sleeves, or a holographic vinyl windbreaker and matching Bermuda shorts. The designer used studs and crystal beads to bedazzle everything from cut-off denim shorts to cropped jackets and roomy coats.
The Vegas vibe extended to an oversized black suit with rows of rhinestones in lieu of pinstripes. It made for an irreverent

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Huishan Zhang RTW Spring 2019

Huishan Zhang’s brand of refined femininity has always given a nod to bygone eras or paid homage to stylized movies by auteurs. His sense of romance imbues a sense of dreaminess even when interpreting its darker tones. This season, Zhang looked to the future and took the Reuleaux triangle as his starting point.
“They used this triangular form for space travel a lot and the colors draw from the light that’s coming through,” the designer said.
The Reuleaux triangle is formed when three circles intersect and the shape was seen throughout the collection as cutouts on the backs of dresses, delicately pleated on the neckline, and quilted into feathered shift dresses.
“The silhouette is very Nineties and minimal but we injected it with really exciting colors,” he explained.
The collection opened with a series of fresh pastels in mint, yellow and periwinkle separates overlaid with tulle, followed by darker navy and black suits in satin and hand-embellished with pearl detailing. Zhang closed the show with a series of blush-toned satin gowns featuring exaggerated peplums and fluid ruffles that cascaded down the body.
Several of the pieces were cut on one piece of fabric. Zhang and his atelier in China draped one piece of square fabric

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Brooks Brothers RTW Spring 2019

Creative Director Zac Posen delivered a garden party brimming with a youthful take on corporate attire inspired in part by images of Jacqueline de Ribes in the garden.
He introduced a cheeky cherry print, which was cut into a playful pleated skirt and embroidered onto a little T, and undercut the collection with a fresh vintage ease. Pink tweed suiting was enlivened with fluorescent orange specks, while a prim-cut blazer came in a sweet pastel orange. A floral jacquard jacket-and-skirt set harked to the fashion sensibility that could be seen in his namesake secondary line.
The storied brand has been able to draw in younger customers with updates to wardrobe staples that have a modern, easy approach to sophistication. Shirt dressing has been key, and was cut this season with a navy porcelain print and an orange style with a playful wrap belt. No item balanced modish feminine flair with a transitional day-to-evening quality more than a flirty color-blocked dress in blush, ivory and lime.
Posen made sure to offer loyal customers approachable elegance with classic seersucker in driftwood brown, suiting styled with casual striped Ts and stretchy graphic jacquards. For the new professional woman, look no further for a blend of leisure,

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House of Holland RTW Spring 2019

Henry Holland vapes. And his favorite flavor is mint — which explains all the minty neon colors and the unexpected accessories he introduced.
“I just thought it’d be interesting to create some cool vaping accessories”, he said when asked about the e-cigs that poked out of body harnesses and neck pouches.
The first look, a bright orange power suit, had Holland’s front-row celebs nodding in approval — or maybe they were just head bopping to the up tempo soundtrack.
“I wanted to capture the increasing pace of life and this collection is about the woman who just got out of the shower and has to get to work, the gym, the office, or wherever,” he said.
While attention-grabbing cord-laced neon sandals were shown, there was not much newness to be seen elsewhere. His usual ripstop nylon sportswear pieces, track pants and parachute parkas made their rounds. Maybe Holland too, was in a rush?

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Xiao Li RTW Spring 2019

“I wanted to create a strong holiday feeling with this collection because to be honest, everyone around me had a holiday in August and I’m quite jealous! I missed mine,” the designer Xiao Li told WWD after the show.
For Li’s holiday wardrobe, stripes reigned supreme, as well as delicate ginghams, bold oversized holographic hats and whisper-weight silk pieces embellished with ice blue crystals.
Wide summer stripes in baby blue, pink and yellow opened the show on a series of boxy jackets with ruff detailing and matching skirts, followed by macs paired with tulle socks and white platform sandals, and pullovers worn over hooded swimsuits. Delicate drop-waisted gingham dresses were subverted with belted leather harnesses featuring structured ruffles that sat atop shoulders, while sleeveless iridescent macs were nipped with contrasting belts with exaggerated buckles.
This season, Li developed a fabric inspired by bubble wrap made using silk that was cleverly transformed into full-cut trousers, delicate fishermen’s vests teamed with flouncy skirts, and a lustrous tiered hem dress that closed the show.

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Yigal Azrouël RTW Spring 2019

Yigal Azrouël calls New York home, but he grew up on the beach and has a lifelong obsession with surfing. When he can, he gets off the grid to surf in Costa Rica, but he surfs locally out on Long Beach, which is where he found inspiration for spring.
There were nods to the beach throughout his textured and effortless pieces. For example, thick nautical rope ties used to gather the neck on gauzy silk dresses, the ribbing of a shell he found ending up as a print on a knit pant and tunic, a seersucker fabric was treated to give it shape and new proportion creating a billowing trenchcoat, a coated cotton blue and white shirtdress played with the eye as it wasn’t a shirt, but a jacket.
His modern laid-back collection doesn’t have hanger appeal, instead his pieces need to be experienced, and putting them on illuminates his deft way with subtle details like one-sided cutouts just below the arm to expose the body, subtle and not too sexy. It’s these understated details — interestingly placed hardware, mixing of textures and knit gauges — that make his clothing come to life. It makes for a collection that is unique to

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Studio 189 RTW Spring 2019

“We are all from the same place,” said designer Abrima Erwiah while previewing her energetic spring collection. “When you buy one of our pieces you immediately activate the supply chain all the way back to the first people, which is the farmers.”
The brand, a collective work between Erwiah and actress Rosario Dawson, has cause to celebrate, having just won the CFDA + Lexus Fashion Initiative for sustainability. The two aim to build a “fairer fashion,” with a brand that brings attention to artisans, women’s empowerment and poverty in West Africa. Sourcing the textiles, an arduous process that involves New York and Ghana, West Africa, takes about six months.
The result was a lineup of vividly colored and patterned frocks for men and women that felt vibrant and energized. The clean silhouettes at times boarded on androgynous with kimono tops, caftans and generous suiting that had movement when they came down the runway.
Rounding out the collection were waist packs and tote bags constructed of dried grass and pineapple leather styled with glass beaded jewelry to complete looks that were bright and cheerful — and have a purpose.

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Vaquera RTW Spring 2019

Vaquera’s spring show was like a fun little pop quiz that the whole class already knew all the answers to — no head-scratchers here. Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully showed at P.S. 42 Benjamin Altman on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, the runway winding through cafeteria tables littered with bubblegum, spilled Coke cans and wadded-up loose leaf paper. The “Harry Potter” theme song set up a procession of high-school stereotypes — jocks, sluts, cheerleaders, goths — that twisted through the Vaquera looking glass so that freaks and geeks ruled the school. Is subversion still subversive when the concept has gone so mainstream?
The prom king wore pumps with a literal sweatsuit, a tux made from gray fleece. The cheerleader looked like she had spent the night at a rager in her bra top and tattered mini dress. Football pads were reimagined as a cute denim harness; your little brother’s sports bedsheets were transformed into a voluminous gown, and those finicky Scantrons became a print on a pair of pants.
A footnote on Vaquera’s shownotes defined the label as “a unisex clothing line that redefines luxury fashion through narrative-based collections.” The story they were telling was clear, though it stands to note

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Zero + Maria Cornejo RTW Spring 2019

“It’s all about strong women,” said Maria Cornejo backstage at her spring runway show. Her inspiration was epitomized in the collection by a print reproducing a work by Chilean artist Gracia Barrios, an abstract pattern consisting of sketched faces of extraordinary international female personalities. The motif was printed, for example, on a fresh cotton top worn with a draped skirt crafted from organic denim, as well as on a maxishirt paired with relaxed cropped pants.
In keeping with her quintessentially chic aesthetic, the designer delivered a beautiful collection where an unfussy urban mood was warmed up by Cornejo’s Latin sensibility, expressed particularly in the color palette of earthy, neutral tones juxtaposed with bright shades of coral red and vivid blue.
By choosing an inclusive casting of women of different ages, Cornejo wanted to highlight the timeless spirit of the collection, one designed to transcend seasonal trends and provide longevity and continuity among generations. While the oversized striped suit that opened the show and a sharp-cut denim jacket worn with matching pants looked more rigorous and infused with a certain mannish feel, the frocks and tops with plunging necks and the satin long dresses and revisited pajama sets revealed the very feminine side

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Prabal Gurung RTW Spring 2019

A feast for the eyes and an injection of good vibes for the spirit: On Sunday night, Prabal Gurung celebrated the joyful and positive side of fashion with a runway show that was pure energy.
Colorblocking, bold tones, fluid and relaxed silhouettes were the main ingredients of a group of flamboyant outfits opening the show. Joan Smalls sported a yellow ribbed bodysuit tucked into a transparent neon green skirt trimmed in fuchsia satin; Gigi Hadid wore a cropped white T-shirt paired with a draped skirt in a bright color combination. Bella Hadid took the catwalk in a pair of pink cargo pants and a triangle bikini top and sporty colorful windbreaker. The athletic attitude also informed the feminine frocks and skirts enriched with drawstring details and elastic waistbands, while an extravagant touch was introduced via the traffic-stopping feathers embroidered on cropped denim pants and a covetable black T-shirt dress. Artisanal craftsmanship is an iconic element of Gurung’s design aesthetic. This season it was beautifully shown on beaded and sequined frocks revealing degradé effects and sarong skirts trimmed with tiny, precious fringe.
Unveiling men’s wear for the first time, the designer created a charming dialogue between the two lineups, which looked totally coherent.

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Miss America 2019: 5 Things to Know About Miss New York Nia Franklin

Nia Franklin, Miss New York, Miss AmericaThe Miss America baton–or should we say crown–has been passed from former Miss North Dakota Cara Mund to this year’s Miss America, Nia Franklin.
Franklin, who is Miss New York, won…


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Ralph Lauren RTW Spring 2019

It was a Moment. Not just a fashion moment — though it was certainly that. It was a cultural moment, which, in context of the larger, ugly cultural moment we live in, highlighted one man’s lifelong belief, well and beautifully registered in his megabrand’s identity, that civility is not only aspirational but possible, that it just takes open minds and effort. Oprah spoke of Ralph Lauren’s integrity, which is “a word we need more of.” A litany of famous guests came to pay tribute (and enjoy a glam night in Central Park): from Hillary to Kanye to the other two-thirds of American fashion’s ever-linked, transformational triumvirate, Calvin and Donna. The evening majesty of Bethesda Terrace, its arcade now set with velvet-covered benches atop a pastiche of a Persian rug, offered a sliver of New York at its idealized, romantic best. Then there’s the American Dream storyline, one of possibility realized and then some.
Given those threads, it may seem trite to focus too minutely on the clothes: Let’s celebrate the man and his unprecedented accomplishments now; plenty of time later to talk merch. But this was a fashion show, that essential seasonal statement of the clothes Ralph Lauren the man and the

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John Elliott Men’s and Women’s Spring 2019

John Elliott brought a healthy dose of California to New York City for his spring show, taking over a skate park on the Hudson River to drive home the inspiration for the season: Los Angeles. With the 90-plus-degree heat and blazing sun, it was L.A. at its most extreme.
The designer did his best to make attendees comfortable on their colorful milk-crate seats by providing cold water or juice and portable fans. But most faces were shiny with sweat by the time his celebrity guests arrived: LeBron James and Justin Bieber, the latter arriving hand-in-hand with fiancée Hailey Baldwin and grooving to the soundtrack.
Elliott considered his hometown “the most authoritative story” he could tell this season. “Not the stereotypical, glitzy, Hollywood L.A.,” he noted, “but the real neighborhoods — that’s my truth.”
It shone through in its casual vibe and the seamless blend of streetwear and athletic references. Elliott also showed a new maturity by offering up a blend of technical materials and varying silhouettes that took inspiration from different eras to create a never-ending youthful vibe.
His L.A. inspiration was obvious in the slightly oversize shorts and jackets that he emblazoned with a colorful bougainvillea print — a bit out of character

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Markarian RTW Spring 2019

Markarian designer Alexandra O’Neill made her New York Fashion Week debut with a “Jane-Austen-meets-Laura-Ashley” themed spring collection. Her ethereal party dresses with custom floral embroideries channeled Austen, while matching accessories, a new category for the brand, mimicked Ashley. One standout was a white cotton poplin dress with custom red and gold embroidered flowers worn with a matching belt, miniature top-handle box bag and sandals. Beautiful gowns were aplenty, like a peach sequined corset bias dress with grosgrain trim; a light yellow, floral jacquard number and the brand’s best-selling corset dress that was updated with velvet bow details on the shoulders. For spring, O’Neill expanded into daywear with playful suiting separates with rhinestone trim, printed minidresses and skirts, playful tops and cotton-blend jackets to match the dresses.
“Business has been great,” reported O’Neill, who launched her line in spring 2017. “There definitely was a little gap in the market for these really good, easy party dresses with an easy fit — something that was still whimsical and fun that didn’t take itself too seriously.“ Aside from her impressive 35-look spring collection, O’Neill has an even bigger future goal: The first Markarian bridal collection is in the works for October. Additionally, the line, which

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Parke & Ronen Men’s Spring 2019

Leave it to Parke & Ronen to transport tired, hot New Yorkers to a beach in Malibu on a Tuesday afternoon in July.
“It’s all about L.A., baby,” said codesigner Parke Lutter backstage before the show.
He and Ronen Jehezkel trotted out a lovely array of pastel colors, floral prints and retro graphic stripes on swimwear, coverups and short-sleeve sweaters.
“We threw in a little Eighties vibe — we were listening to the Go-Go’s,” Lutter said, adding that the silhouette this season was classic but modernized with a little higher waist and more of a boxy feel.
The sheer shirts and pajama sets spoke of the leisurely lifestyle while the sleeveless hooded sweatshirts pushed a more athletic vibe.
With a soundtrack that included Lady Gaga’s “Boys, Boys, Boys” and Rod Stewart’s “Do You Think I’m Sexy,” Parke & Ronen proved that even after 21 years, they can still get a crowd energized while building on a successful business.

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Sundae School Men’s Spring 2019

What is smokewear? According to Dae Lim, who designs Sundae School, it’s a category of clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers but supportive of recreational weed smoking in subtle and overt ways.
Lim grew up in Seoul, where marijuana usage is still illegal, but came to the U.S. 11 years ago and was introduced to it as a teen. After studying math at Harvard, he joined McKinsey & Co. as a consultant but decided that wasn’t the environment for him and got a job at VFiles as the head of growth. He used his resources there to create Sundae School, which is a year old and started out with mostly graphic T-shirts and dad hats emblazoned with stoner puns. But for his spring 2019 collection, he expanded on his original proposition with a proper apparel collection that’s titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar.
He imagined a world where scholars explored weed and collaborated with South Korean illustrator Yeonbun on a graphic depicting that scenario. He also looked to hanbok, traditional Korean dress, to present a neutral lineup of casual but refined clothing. Models wore mostly leisure suits that consisted of lightweight poly jackets with tie

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Gustav von Aschenbach Men’s Spring 2019

In its third season, Robert Geller’s Gustav von Aschenbach seems to be finally developing its own identity.
Although a younger and more fun offshoot of the designer’s main line, the collection still has Geller’s signature, with its traditional boxy silhouettes, washed cotton fabrics and saturated tones.
But G.V.A., as the line is now being called, has more of a streetwear edge. The use of logos, slogans and appliquéd photographs spoke to Geller’s love of Swiss graphic design and typography — as evidenced by the word Basel used on garments throughout.
“The G.V.A. kid is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” Geller said.
Some of this artistic expression shone through in a creative casting mix of models and New York street dancers that added a jolt of energy and fun to the show.
Among the highlights was an array of light outerwear, from trenchcoats and cropped field jackets to utility varsities. Embellished with the graphic details, these became one-of-a-kind pieces.
Geller’s ability to create a younger alter-ego allows him to channel trendier and more of-the-now pieces. But coupled with his more romantic and mature Robert Geller collection, these two sides of his personality seem perfectly aligned.

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Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2019

Nick Graham’s space odyssey continued for spring with a collection titled “1969.” He called it “one of the most transformational years in our history, a year that had both the first landing on the moon by Apollo 11 and also Woodstock, both of which were pretty transformative events in our culture.”
A rocket-shaped 1959 Cadillac Cyclone concept car — the only one made and dispatched from the company’s archives in Detroit — was parked on the runway and served as the perfect backdrop for the zesty show.
It opened with a troupe of boys dancing in “Martian in Training” T-shirts, followed by a parade of traditional sartorial clothing that was super fitted to the body with cropped blazers and tapered pants. Metallic bomber jackets with NASA logos set the tone for an array of intergalactic references that included alien faces printed on shirts and atomic symbols on the breast pockets of suit jackets.
In addition to the suits— which were offered in colorful, shiny solids and exaggerated men’s wear classic patterns — Graham introduced a lot more casualwear, including logo hoodies and sweat pants.
Although Graham’s obsession with space travel is nothing new, it continues to provide a fun story line and an uplifting

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Nihl Men’s Spring 2019

In his New York show, Neil Grotzinger of Nihl, the LVMH Prize finalist, broke traditional rules of masculinity with a collection that centered around bending the rules of those in authority.
He took police officers, football players and Wall Street brokers and turned their wardrobes on their head by “exploring the qualities of borderline ephemerality and downright queerness,” according to the liner notes.

A clear example was a pair of football pants made from fine white silk he paired with a handmade chain mail tank top. An authentic crinkled painter’s tarp — black on one side, green on the other with drawstrings included — was reinterpreted as pants and a top.

Grotzinger’s use of elaborate embroidery techniques appeared as embellishments on several pieces, including the sleeves of sheer tops and a sliced-open basketball short.

The use of revealing cutouts and jock straps throughout the collection added a level of eroticism while enhancing the masculinity of the offering.

“The concepts of masculinity can be very restrictive and I like to break the conformity of that,” Grotzinger said.

In this debut, Grotzinger gained a lot of attention by breaking the rules — in the right way.

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Jahnkoy Men’s Spring 2019

Maria Jahnkoy, whose real name is Maria Kazakova, is Siberian and studied at Central Saint Martins and Parsons, has received a lot of support from the industry with her brand narrative, which is centered on preserving traditional craftsmanship and reworking it for a new generation.
She was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize and has found fans in consultant Julie Gilhart and Bruce Pask, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Kazakova also has the support of Puma, Swarovski and the CFDA’s Elaine Gold Launch Pad program.
Her goal has always been to connect larger companies with local artisans, but with the extra help she’s been able to expand on that and bring more makers from Brooklyn and India into the mix. The show, which was more like a theatrical art project, was a collective effort as well. Titled “Deceived: No More,” the performance explored how the fashion industry impacts cultural identity. The presentation, which was choreographed by Nathan Trice, was broken up into three parts: chaos, unification and order. Much like her previous presentations, she made the runway mimic a chaotic city street that was dotted with orange cones and caution signs — one read “Separation is No

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2019

This season, the N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a lineup inspired by Native American artist T.C. Cannon, whose work he discovered during a recent trip to Arizona.
“The lines and the bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said backstage, pointing to an array of blanket-like pieces, often paired with matching oversize shorts. This graphic inspiration was seen in everything from cropped bomber jackets and knitwear with fringe across the chest to oversize pants.
An added surprise was Obana’s collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro. It spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and elongated coats adorned with oversize Umbro logos done up in bright colors with vertical lines that tied back to Cannon’s paintings.
With their mix of deconstruction and surprising proportions, Obana’s Japanese silhouettes seamlessly blended the worlds of artisanal and active sport.

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Abasi Rosborough Men’s Spring 2019

In their sophomore showing during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough explored a desert phantom theme that referenced a variety of vanishing cultures and tribes.
The design duo paraded a diverse range, from kimono-inspired jackets and coats and fitted cargo pants to Navajo-printed parkas. The color palette included deep burgundies and burnt orange that brought an Eastern sensibility to the forefront, while a flowing white section telegraphed the desert inspiration. “We even looked at ‘Lawrence of Arabia,’” Rosborough noted.
A wrinkled cotton hybrid poncho with matching head scarf and an ethereal topcoat in the same fabric also drove the desert theme home. Likewise, a Tencel linen that was frayed to look old — employed for bomber jackets and coats — reinforced that worn-in traveler vibe.
With this effort, Abasi Rosborough continues to make its mark in men’s fashion. “We’ve seen an exodus of big designers this week, but we look at it as an opportunity for new designers to step forward,” Rosborough said.

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Head of State Men’s Spring 2019

For his first runway show, Nigerian-born designer Taofeek Abijako, took inspiration from Afrofuturism and paraded a lineup with a distinct Seventies feel. 
Cue an array of high-waisted cropped and flared pants, fitted sweatshirts and message T-shirts.
The standouts were the flared pants, worn with matching boots, which gave it a New York Seventies vibe. 
Head of State is now part of Groupe, a distribution umbrella formed by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt, which manages and nurtures independent designers and brands. Abijako was the first brand chosen, allowing him to focus strictly on creating the collection while Groupe provides the funding for samples and production.     

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Bode Men’s Spring 2019

Aaron Aujla, owner of Green River Project, a furniture and interiors firm, was Emily Bode’s primary reference point this season. She met Aujla in New York and they’ve previously worked together on other projects. (He’s created all of the furniture for Bode’s presentations.)
For her collection, Bode drew from Aujla’s lineage. His family is from India, but he grew up in British Columbia. Bode has always outsourced her embroidery and embellishment work in India, but this season she worked with more Indian textiles that had historical significance. She made suits from Khadi towels, an Indian fabric and developed another suit from India’s government subsidized mill prints.
Bode said the Khadi fabric has a connection to Mahatma Gandhi’s self-reliance movement, which urged Indians to bring weaving back into the home as opposed to buying these goods from other countries.
Highlights included a white fringed button-up shirt made of chenille, a pair of floral print high-waisted pants constructed from curtain fabric, and a bright yellow matching set printed with a village motif that consisted of a crepe de chine shirt and duchesse-satin pants.
The furniture was influenced by Indian filmmaker Satyajit Ray’s 1966 “Nayak,” which was filmed on a train, and each of the pieces were

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Ricardo Seco Men’s Spring 2019

The 50th anniversary of the Mexico City Olympics served as the jumping off point for Ricardo Seco’s spring men’s collection.

The designer used stripes and optical illusions along with the late Sixties font and Olympics rings to pay homage to the 1968 Games. These graphics showed up in bombers, T-shirts and track pants that Seco reimagined in bright colors or vibrant black and white.

More contemporary visual elements such as cell phones and skates were used as accents inside jackets while the current immigration crisis was referenced by large DACA lettering on T-shirts and socks. Seco also went back to the beginning of the Black Power movement by using the now-famous fist symbol on tops.

The overall vibe of the collection felt upbeat despite the political references.

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Reconstruct Collective Men’s Spring 2019

Reconstruct Collective, consisting of five female designers, began out of necessity. After learning that the Willem de Kooning Academy wasn’t able to put on a fashion show for its graduating class, students banded together to organize their own show. And in order to raise money for the show, they needed to form a business with the chamber of commerce. Because they worked so well together, Laura Aanen, Alyssa Groeneveld, Kim Kivits, Michelle Lievaart and Sanne Verkleij decided to start a collective shortly after graduating. Now three collections in, the Amsterdam-based company opted to show in New York, which Groeneveld said made sense for the brand, which caters to the youth.
For spring the unisex line was based on a fictional place called Planet Re-4 and the fictional characters that live there. The lineup, which Groeneveld said falls between streetwear and couture, was made up of reconstructions of sporty pieces. They presented cropped bubble vests and matching miniskirts, wide-leg nylon pants decorated with multiple drawstrings or reflective material, cropped tank tops with the Re-4 logo and jackets made from strips of fabric. The waistbands displayed a graphic Reconstruct logo. They also reconfigured Converse tracksuits and pieces from The New Originals, an Amsterdam-based

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Public School Men’s Spring 2019

Call it Public School part two.
On the final night of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the streetwear-skewed brand held a party and presentation at a space on Howard Street in Chinatown with its theme kept under wraps until the doors opened.
“This is our space,” said Dao-Yi Chow, who designs the label with Maxwell Osborne. “This will be our first retail store and this is a soft launch of the space.”
Throughout the location were mannequins dressed in the new collection — although Chow said the description “needs an asterisk by ‘new.’ Everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock,” he said, and is intended to represent our new philosophy.”
While the philosophy may be new, the lineup revisited the duo’s greatest hits.
They revisited collaborations with like-minded brands including Eileen Fisher, whose dead-stock silks became striped pajama-inspired ensembles; Levi’s, whose vintage denim was reworked into cropped trucker jackets, and Alpha Industries military fabrics made into sleek outerwear.
“It’s very much the foundation and our past and then looking into the future,” Osborne added.
The collection reflected that with a clear example being a supersharp black suit with built-in cargo pockets and statement zippers. A short-sleeve jumpsuit — also part of their DNA — was so elegant

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Resort 2019 Fashion Trend: Poppy Plaids

Colorful stripes, alone or crossed to form squares, added graphic verve to contemporary collections for resort.

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2019

Todd Snyder closed New York Fashion Week: Men’s on a high note, sending out a feel-good collection full of bright colors and a youthful attitude that he titled “The American Tourist.”
“I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references,” he said backstage before the show, where truffle popcorn and beer was served.
The opening look set the tone for the collection: a yellow T-shirt with a photo of a Waffle House that was taken by folk rocker Gerry Beckley of the group America. A series, all shot by the musician, are to make their debut for spring.
Snyder, the king of collaborations, unveiled other partnerships at the show including a line of terry-cloth bucket hats with Kangol, high-top tie-dye sneakers with Novesta, and perhaps the most striking, archival Hawaiian prints from Reyn Spooner that he used most successfully on an updated suit. “It’s the modern leisure suit,” he said.
His longtime partnership with Champion was also on display in bomber jackets, paneled sweatshirts and underwear. It even appeared as a side stripe on a plaid patterned suit.
Another play on the Americana theme came with the introduction of a new logo — “Snyder’s” in retro block letters — that he used

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Resort 2019 Accessories: A Bright Idea

Accessory designers tuned into color for resort, seeing the season through rose-colored glasses — green, purple, blue and yellow ones, too.

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Borgo de Nor Resort 2019

Borgo de Nor has quickly built a name and a dedicated following around its feminine dresses, with their long, flouncy silhouettes, bold colors and intriguing, surrealist prints.
For its latest resort offering the brand has taken a new direction, sprinkling some equally desirable separates to its offer and reworking some of its dresses for the colder months of the year.
Designers Carmen Borgonovo and Joana de Noronha said the aim was to offer more entry-level price points to their customer, as well as a new, see-now-buy-now element, coinciding with the collection’s retail drops in the winter months.
Signature maxi, ruffled silhouettes were reworked with higher necks and longer sleeves, while the prints – which remained bold and vibrant – were set against a darker color palette of deep reds, emerald greens and blues, evoking a new, autumnal mood.
The design duo continued to explore surrealist art to inspire its prints, producing floral patterns with a more lively spirit and a darker edge.
Among the highlights was an “orchid-leopard print” inspired by a self portrait of surrealist painter, dancer and photographer, Rosa Rolanda, who is pictured with an animal-print orchid on her head.
“When I saw this painting it inspired me to take the idea of a

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Eidos Men’s Spring 2019

It’s a new day for Eidos.
The “younger cousin” of Italian luxury brand Isaia showcased its first full spring collection designed by Simon Spurr, who named creative director of the line last November, at an event at its Madison Square office Tuesday night. The lineup was called — appropriately — Contrast, which spoke to Spurr’s seamless integration of the company’s Neapolitan tailoring roots with what he described as “undertones of British punk.”
The English-born Spurr said, “Each season there will be a tailoring spine and then I’ll wrap something around the tailoring.”
This time around, that translated into Hawaiian-printed short-sleeve shirts, pink fringed suede jackets, indigo tie-dye jean jackets and Breton striped linen sweaters. Even the windowpane patterned suits were modernized. “We’ve done them in a younger way, printed them, they’re a little more graphic,” he said. Ditto for the silhouette, which was slim and youthful.
Isaia launched Eidos as a stand-alone brand in 2013, but Spurr’s addition has managed to elevate the label with an international point of view.

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XBIZ Retreat 2019 Set for Jan. 14-18 in L.A.

Following a recent successful XBIZ Retreat in Miami, organizers of the most exclusive event for adult retail industry leaders have announced Jan. 14-18 as show dates for its upcoming winter 2019 edition in Los Angeles.
XBIZ.com – Pleasure & Retail

Beauty and brains – Pirelli previews its 2019 calendar

Gigi Hadid and Laetitia Casta are among the stars featured in the 2019 Pirelli Calendar, which tells the stories of four women. Rough cut (no reporter narration)


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COLT Studio Ships Leather, Hung, Butt Beautiful Calendars For 2019

COLT Studio is shipping its 2019 calendars featuring classic COLT performers pulled from its five-decades-deep catalog.
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XR Brands is StorErotica’s 2019 Fetish Company of the Year

StorErotica Magazine has named XR Brands its 2018 Fetish Company of the Year
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Romeo Hunte Men’s Spring 2019

Romeo Hunte didn’t make any friends in his men’s runway debut in New York. His choice of a site away from the other venues and the complete chaos in the lobby of the Dream Downtown Hotel with hundreds of people attempting to access elevators to get to the rooftop site was bad enough. The fact that his team couldn’t get its act together to start his show until nearly an hour after it was planned had everyone eyeing the exits before the first look came out.
Once the show finally started, it was clear that Hunte had an underwater sports adventure as his overriding theme. He used neoprene from diving wetsuits that he reimagined as performance vests in bright colors and cropped jackets with exaggerated necklines.

Camo prints in cargo pants and bombers and the use of safety orange enhanced the streetwear flair. But while the line showed some promise, there were several missteps, including poorly executed tailoring and some unfortunate sequined embellished sweatshirts. But apart from that, the collection was youthful and carefree.

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CineKink to Spotlight 2019 Film Festival at Sex Expo NY

CineKink will be returning to Sex Expo New York this year and showcasing its erotic, sex-positive 2019 film festival, set for next March in New York City.
XBIZ.com – Pleasure & Retail

Death to Tennis Men’s Spring 2019

Summertime was the prevailing theme for William Watson and Vincent Oshin, the duo behind Death to Tennis. The designers, who are both British, were feeling nostalgic and a bit homesick so they looked to old beachside photographs to inform their lineup, which they said is one of their most colorful collections to date.
They leaned into the old and new, utilizing a color palette consisting of royal blue, purple, yellow, olive red and navy that brought to mind Ralph Lauren and Cross Colours from the Nineties.
These colors lent new life to core items such as graphic T-shirts, hoodies and the McCarthy jacket, which Justin Bieber popularized. They showed these signatures alongside cargo pants with minimal pockets, boxy button-up shirts, cotton parkas and shirt jackets. A long, hooded, colorblocked parka that grazed the ground was a standout.
The suit or matching set was another primary component. Models wore tracksuits, relaxed cotton suits and boxy shirts styled with slightly baggy pants. It was a nice take on tailored pieces that felt hip but not too trendy.
Death to Tennis is known for its original prints and this season it presented a camo pattern, a polo motif and a paint-splattered print.
Last season, the brand put on a

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Kenneth Nicholson Men’s Spring 2019

Kenneth Nicholson pulls from a varied bag of interests. The Houston native is as motivated by 18th-century dress as he is by outfits from “Soul Train” and military uniforms — after attending the Academy of Art in San Francisco, Nicholson spent a one-year stint in the Navy before he was honorably discharged. But his overall interest is in expanding the boundaries of men’s wear.
“Historically, men haven’t been restricted to just a shirt and pants. They’ve had more options,” Nicholson said. “I like to edify people and shake things up.”
He divided his collection into three chapters. The first chapter was a stark white, which Nicholson said was void of color to express sadness. Models wore cotton and linen long-sleeved shirtdresses with subtle swing hems, white lace shirts paired with cream high-waisted pants, and a brocade jacket with an exaggerated lapel coupled with a matching skirt. References to royalty were sprinkled throughout the lineup. Some models wore sashes, others wore crowns and a couple of the more structured, beaded looks with mock necks, nipped waists and peplums, which were highlights from the collection, brought to mind regalness.
The second chapter, which signaled better memories and featured more color, was the strongest. Nicholson doubled

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Way-too-early 2019 NHL free-agent buyer’s guide

We slot the players into five tiers and assess their chances of actually reaching the free agent market next July 1.
www.espn.com – NHL

Top 10 candidates for the 2019 Hockey Hall of Fame class

Following this week’s Hall of Fame induction announcements, we take a look at who is on deck for next year’s class.
www.espn.com – NHL

Krizia Resort 2019

Milan in the Eighties, which served as the effervescent background for the success of the Krizia brand, inspired the label’s resort collection.
In particular, an archival print dating back to 1979 featuring sensual women’s legs, which was splashed on a silk top matched with coordinated pants, perfectly embodied the playful and hedonist spirit of that decade.
At the same time, Krizia’s signature animal motifs were revamped to pepper both fluid blouses and dresses and casual jeans, as well as the intarsia knits, spanning from tops and sweaters to fitted pencil skirts.
The brand’s signature sartorial heritage reflected in the impeccable suits, while Lurex, another brand’s must-have, was crafted from a silver column dress worn with a matching bra.
An homage to Krizia’s founder Mariuccia Mandelli, who was known for her volcanic temperament, a macramé lace featuring the wording “Krazy Krizia” was used for a feminine skirt and a pair of joggers — two go-to pieces for the brand’s most loyal aficionados.

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Why Jack Hughes is the top-ranked 2019 draft prospect

Meet Jack Hughes, the record-breaking center who is expected to go No. 1 in next June’s NHL draft.
www.espn.com – NHL

Way-too-early top-10 rankings for the 2019 draft

Jack Hughes sure seems like the top pick, but who else makes the early top 10 for next year’s draft?
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Damir Doma Men’s Spring 2019

Damir Doma changed his approach this season, eschewing the runway and homing in on the essentials: clothing for people, not editors and buyers. He’s been thinking a lot about how the fashion system isn’t working, like margins piling up at every stage of the process, blowing up the price for the end consumer.
Building on his aesthetic — poetic minimalist, in his description, which is apt — he offered a compact lineup of clever and functional pieces that introduced a breezy element to streetwear.
Doma recalled the patchwork pocket displays shown by Sheila Hicks in the Pompidou Center and put the idea to use. Crafting them out of a light, hot pink fabric — the perfect weight, not too loose, not too stiff — they added an extra dimension to the front of a jacket.
In contrast, he employed printed images of net fabric onto black to give the appearance of extra texture — the fabric was actually quite thin and lightweight.
White jeans were folded, and then printed in a peachy color, leaving patches of untouched cloth under the folds; he also applied a thin film of pink spray paint to an army green bomber jacket. Running shoes had chunky soles, offering a

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David Koma Resort 2019

Like many others, David Koma has been influenced by the Eighties resurgence that’s been making waves on the catwalks and shop floors alike.
But the London-based designer managed to stand out in his interpretation of the hugely popular decade, making it his own by blending subtle Eighties references — a puff sleeve here, a crystal-embellished zip there — with his signature graphic lines and flair for modernism.
The result was a collection filled with desirable pieces that had the glamour and drama of the past and the sense of ease that speaks to today’s consumer.
Inspired by Helmut Newton’s swimwear photographs, Koma re-created his popular minidresses with curved, sporty necklines and ultra-thin shoulder straps. He also added a generous dose of sparkle with oversize crystals, silver sequins and Plexiglass. Heavy embellishment can be dangerous territory, but by keeping a monochromatic color palette and using the crystals or sequins to create graphic lines, Koma maintained a fresh, modern look.
Among the standouts were a white one-shouldered gown featuring a flashy sequinned side panel that aims to highlight the body, a black-and-white tuxedo dress with puffed silk-organza sleeves and black minidresses mixing graphic cutouts and soft draping.
Elsewhere, Koma continued to play with contrasts in a series

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3.1 Phillip Lim Men’s Spring 2019

Phillip Lim is ready for a vacation.
The designer’s spring men’s wear collection offered everything for a well-needed break from the office — tropical print shirts, shorter shorts, high-waisted pants and a new silhouette in tunics that could double as a cover-up.
“This is all about taking time off,” he said.
Elongated shirt-jackets with utilitarian details were prominent throughout the line, as were washed pastels that he used in wrinkled cotton pajama shirts that blended effortlessly with the tropical prints — an effort that could have been over-the-top in another designer’s hands. Ditto for Lim’s masterful use of layering.
Interestingly, the collection also included a selection of leather pieces — from blazers and baseball shirts to a trench — all in cognac brown. Although heavier than the rest of the offering, it too seemed to work.
In contrast, Lim was especially proud of his white suit that he offered up in an unlined silhouette with a wider lapel, strong shoulder and slightly cropped pant.
To drive home his point for the season, he created a ribbon that read: Take Time Off, that he used on hats and the straps of bags. “It’s a subliminal cue to remind us that if we don’t refuel, nothing matters,” he

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Big Uncle Men’s Spring 2019

Sabino Lebba and Riccardo Moroni put the focus on uniform dressing to great effect in this contained collection of workwear separates with a twist.
There were shorts suits, some plain, others with checks, that came with shirt jackets piped in green flouro. Other button-front jackets had Mao collars, while Velcro strips at the wrists kept folded shirt cuffs in place.
The palette of neutrals included khaki, army green and faded clay blue. Plain cotton baseball caps – made to match the suits – topped off the looks.
Lebba loves the idea of the uniform for a variety of reasons: “The lines are clean, but there’s still a heart,” he said during the still-life presentation in a small Brera restaurant called Carminio.
He also appreciates the role of the uniform as an identity marker. “People express their individuality with clothing but, at the same time, the way they dress shows what group they belong to.”
This collection is still small, selling at about 15 stores worldwide, although the duo’s dreams are big with more international retail outlets on the drawing board, and plans to bulk up the current offer from 80 to 120 pieces.    

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Spring 2019

FIRST PRADA: “Any time spent in Italy is well spent,” said American actor Nick Robinson at his first Prada show, although for the moment his time in the country was limited to the Italian designer’s event. His summer included “traveling a couple of weeks in the Northwest [of the U.S.], a beautiful area, with as many adventures as I can, but I have no plans yet — I just want to be spontaneous.” Prada tapped Robinson for its most recent 365 campaign, and the actor, seen in Greg Berlanti’s 2018 film “Love, Simon,” said attending the show was “a rare, unique experience,” as he rarely attends fashion shows. “It’s such a fascinating world, and whenever I get the opportunity, I usually take it.”
American actor and singer Algee Smith, also in Prada’s campaign, was equally star-struck. “This is my first show, I’m super excited.” He said that shooting the campaign — his first ever — was “nothing like I expected, we were in a warehouse and there was such an adrenaline rush…” The artist said his next album is coming out, as well as the movie “The Hate U Give,” expected to be released in October. Directed by George Tillman Jr.

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Ulla Johnson Resort 2019

Coming off a 20-year anniversary milestone, Ulla Johnson keeps on rolling. She recently traveled to Brazil to check on the intricately hand-woven shoes and bags she used in resort as an artisanal element to finish off feminine looks. São Paulo proved inspirational for its balance of modern architecture, culture and wilderness, leading Johnson to explore a meeting place of structure and ease in her signature bohemian romance.
She turned to the work of Hilma af Klint, an abstract painter in the 20th century, whose art employed a bold use of color, geometry and floral motifs. It inspired the exuberant palette of poppy yellow, red, magenta and lavender, as well as the floral patterns of ruffle-adorned dresses and opulent embroidery. A standout dress, made in India, for instance, featured paneling that took eight hours to embroider, handmade crochet trim and flower tassel, and handfinishing that makes it an emotional buy, and a keepsake that’ll last more than a season. Almost all the prints this season were shown on the reverse for a lived-in, time-honored effect. Customers will appreciate the fringy handknits woven in Peru and other hand-braided, hand-woven bags made in the Philippines and Spain.
She steered silhouettes to be soft and structured,

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Antonio Marras Resort 2019

A combination of Eastern and Western elements. “From ‘Madama Butterfly’ to ‘Sailor Moon,’” said Antonio Marras, highlighting the inspiration behind his pretty resort collection.
Maritime references stood out in the lineup. They spanned from sailor jackets, which reworked vintage styles, to a striped top featuring Marras’ Pierivo Jack Russell dog portrayed in a sailor uniform. A jacquard sweater was embellished with an intarsia reproducing a big wave. Plaid inserts peppered a maxi denim jacket and floral embroideries gave a sweet, romantic touch to a silk frock. The color palette, which was big on indigo shades, included the bright red tone of a lovely polka dot frock featuring lace details at the collar and a sweet bow at the waist.
More street-focused pieces included an oversize hooded sweatshirt showing a patchwork of floral motifs and a PVC raincoat decorated with a checkered insert.

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Merlette RTW Resort 2019

The ability of a fashion brand to grow slowly, without pumping out overtly trendy but continually refreshing silhouettes over the period of a few years while generating sales is an impressive feat in this day and age. Designer Marina Cortbawi’s line of roomy cotton silhouettes for Merlette, offered with thoughtful, smaller details each season, is an example of this type of brand. For resort, Cortbawi infused subtle “non-print” print into her otherwise solid lineup through a calla lily line drawing while adding hand-embroidered details to her ever-evolving line of easygoing, cotton attire. Although her customer stated they didn’t want a print, her artful Ellsworth Kelly, Robert Mapplethorpe and Georgia O’Keeffe-inspired flower was so subtle, even when embroidered on a caftan, that it fit just right.
For instance, her billowy tiered or smocked tops and dresses were given with gold handwoven stitching onto more updated, boxy shapes. Double-V eyelet tops with pintucking, Italian tumbled cotton dresses in navy and coral colored frocks with tie details also made for nice newness to the collection. Although there was a lot of newness, the pieces felt at home with Merlette’s unpretentious, resorty DNA, where fabrics are the forefront of design. For instance, two of Cortbawi’s most

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Emporio Armani Resort 2019

An energetic urban vibe was injected into the Emporio Armani resort collection. Giorgio Armani kept the silhouettes uncomplicated to deliver a wearable wardrobe for dynamic city women. More structured pieces crafted from high-end fabrics with an evening look were matched with casual items. For example, a silk jacquard tailored jacket was worn with coated rolled-up denim pants, a textured shiny coat was shown with drawstring shorts and a denim jacket with an elastic logo band was paired with pleated silk pants. There was a playful pop attitude echoing in a silk dress worked in a heart print, while a linen skirt suit offered a fun office option. While an outfit combining straight-leg pants and a tunic top with a cutout detail on the back epitomized the brand’s discreet elegance, a range of breezy, airy colorful summer dresses introduced a playful, joyful note.

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Moschino Resort 2019 and Men’s Spring/Summer 2019

“Ladies and gentlemen of all ages, welcome to the Moschino circus!” boomed Jeremy Scott, who did his best P.T. Barnum as he strode into the ring of a giant blue-and-red-striped circus tent on Friday night.
Decked out in a black and gold skeleton suit and top hat, the designer literally took center stage before his combined resort 2019 and spring 2019 men’s runway show at the Los Angeles Equestrian Center, and he relished every moment of it.
“We have thrills and chills and plenty of frills tonight! You will witness death-defying acts of glamour! You will see beading and embroidery never before attempted in a setting like this! A kaleidoscope of colors will tantalize your eyes….So, without any further ado, let the show begin,” and with that, the crowd went wild before the first look had even hit the circular runway.
It was the third year in a row that the Moschino creative director elected to show these seasons in his hometown in June, and it was easy to see why. As guests pulled up to the gated grassy compound in Burbank (the horses were safely tucked into their stables for the night), they were greeted by a mini Ferris wheel, painted carts,

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Iceberg RTW Spring 2019

Creative director James Long is taking the Iceberg show on the road, with London being his first stop outside Italy and future plans for New York and Tokyo. His London show, which popped and fizzed with colors inspired by energy drinks, cartoon strips and seaside clubbers in Nineties Rimini, unfolded on the eve of London Fashion Week Men’s, which starts Saturday and runs through Monday.
Long set London men’s on the right path with his high-energy brand of Italian street luxe for a new generation. He parked Snoopy, Woodstock, Charlie Brown and the Pink Panther — all the faces that originally made Iceberg’s name in the Eighties — on knits, hoodies and turtlenecks in punchy shades of cobalt blue, bubble gum and  fluorescent mint green.
Languid tracksuits, tops, boxy shirts and trousers came in a mix of techno fabrics, triple-printed denim and 3-D knits, and were covered in iterations of the brand’s logo, while zip-front sweaters flashed with checkerboard motor racing patterns. Long showed part of his women’s spring 2019 pre-collection, too: It was similar, but with more flesh on show and a slick of sequins on leather jackets, tank tops and hoodies.
It’s clear that Long, who took over as sole creative director in 2016,

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Lafayette 148 Resort 2019

Creative director Emily Smith’s efforts to take Lafayette 148 into more youthful territory hasn’t gone unnoticed. She’s injected the brand with a sense of polished ease, balancing staple shirting with subtle updates against more fashion-driven statements that are still approachable.
She’s long mined inspiration from art, architecture and travel, this season focused on Sonia Delaunay, a Ukrainian-born French artist in the Twenties who also held roles as a costume designer and automobile designer. There was a gloss of Art Deco references with a fresh approach. Smith worked Delaunay’s love of geometric motifs into circular patterns decorating flirty dresses and stripes onto separates.
The big story here was the “third layer” item — lightweight outerwear that topped off looks without the weight. A silk trench in oversize check was both playful and cool, while an embossed leather duster maintained effortless sophistication styled over office essentials. The linear lines of one bluish gray coat were marked with hand-embroidered chains mirroring the contrast stitching of a core black and white group. The ease of the outerwear translated to other categories, too, namely boyfriend shirting and soft-tailored suiting — in particular, a ruby red set was the perfect holiday outfit for a girl who wants chic

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Tadashi Shoji Resort 2019

“Don’t be restricted. Keep moving,” read Tadashi Shoji’s notes for their mostly sporty resort collection. Athletic references made for fresh daytime updates to the usually embellished evening brand aesthetic. There were dresses with graphic scuba cutwork, mesh sleeves, perforated knits and shoulder cutouts; two of the best included pleated skirts. A white lace number with a ribbed knit outline that resembled an athletic jacket also made for a fun, younger offering. When it came to logomania — full-length on longer evening gowns and in athletic band details — the brand should have stuck to its show notes and moved right along.

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Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2019

Who are the Salvatore Ferragamo customers? That’s the question the brand is trying to answer as it renovates its image.
For resort, women’s creative director Paul Andrew and men’s design director Guillaume Meilland worked together to define a cohesive and coherent wardrobe able to celebrate the brand’s heritage and at the same time to make the fashion house relevant for contemporary customers.
Rather than tapping too aggressively into current trends, they managed to develop a sophisticated, elegant dress code, which looked fresh and modern yet still sober and discreet.
Workwear served as source of inspiration for a women’s oversized denim trenchcoat punctuated by contrasting stitches, as well as for a flared skirt embellished with grommets and utilitarian pockets. This was paired with a sleeveless caban crafted from a precious double-face cashmere, which was also used for a chic asymmetric slipdress trimmed with blanket-like fringes at the bottom.
The impeccable sartorial attitude of the men’s suits, worked in lightweight constructions, also returned in the women’s range with slightly oversized blazers worn with tapered pants, which were cropped at the ankle to show the new Vara booties.
A sense of ease echoed in a group of cotton and linen pieces in classic safari-inspired colors. This included a men’s shirt

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Versace Resort 2019

The personification of the Medusa. For resort, creative director Donatella Versace brought the brand’s iconic logo to life. From being a signature detail, the Medusa has become a feminine character, the strong, independent and beautiful woman inspiring the collection.
Her powerful attitude was reflected in the bold silhouettes, featuring constructed, strong shoulders and tight waistlines enhanced by big belts with eye-catching metallic buckles. Masculine blazers were tucked into high-waisted pencil skirts, while T-shirts layered under bustier tops were paired with pleated pants showing the waist embellished with chunky zippers. These also punctuated the sculpted blazers and the hyper-feminine dresses crafted from checkered and houndstooth fabrics with a mannish feel.
The Nineties vibe echoing in the shapes was exalted by the same decade’s Versace vintage logo splashed on oversize hoodies and denim separates, while a sort of mythological tale was the protagonist of a multicolor print, recalling antiques frescos, giving a flamboyant accent to shirts and pleated midi skirts.
Inspired by an archival motif, the new Alphabet pattern was introduced on a wide range of pieces, from a chic knitted twinset to a wrap dress recalling Gianni Versace’s first draped pieces, which were also celebrated through a group of nylon frocks.
Sophisticated embroideries, intriguing fringes and

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Missoni Resort 2019

A new romanticism, as well as a sense of lightness, delicacy and freshness, echoed throughout the Missoni resort collection. Creative director Angela Missoni was inspired by the candid and intense portraits of African farm workers collected in the “Farm” book by Jackie Nickerson. The photos were reflected not only in the collection’s bleached, oxidized natural colors, but also in the knot details and in the layering that defined the looks. For example, tiny knit sweaters and vests were worn over longer shirts and tunics in a new floral fabric with a paper-like effect. The fluidity of Missoni’s signature knitwear, worked in different weights and sophisticated tones, met the soft texture of the leather crafted for a coat splashed with a graphic print. Colorful linings created charming color effects on the see-through skirts, and tiny fringes introduced an ethnic vibe on pants and frocks. The brand’s artisanal quality emerged in a group of limited-edition coats crafted from a patchwork of archival fabrics, while the maxi draped dresses in solid tones, including a bold green hue, showed that Missoni isn’t only about playful zig-zags.

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Marissa Webb Resort 2019

Every Marissa Webb collection begins with a man. It’s not surprising as the designer has cultivated a masculine-feminine narrative.
This season began with a deep dive into Google and an image of an effeminate male wearing a bleached jumper in a Seventies ad. (Possibly a date ad, Webb isn’t quite sure.) It inspired the bleached denim pieces in the collection — a couple of great high-waisted shorts with wide-leg openings, and a shirt jacket and jeans with distressing she does herself with a Dremel tool.
She also searched various names and places like Charlotte Rampling, Lauren Hutton, Thailand and Spain, which would explain the casualness in flirty dresses and suiting and the saturated color palette. Where Webb excels is at the intersection of the hard-soft, structured-fluid spectrum. Casual white Ts were dipped in paillettes, hand-painted floral patterns were cut into short suits, and ruching and ruffles were done in atypical crisp canvas to better maintain shape. Other highlights included feminine-inflected tailoring, like boxy blazers with ruffle sleeves, soft-tailored frayed suiting and leather pants with more leg room.
“Everything stands alone,” Webb said at a preview, adding: “Everything has a casual element, even if it feels dressed up, you can pair it with flats.”

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Veronica Beard RTW Resort 2019

Casual polish is the endgame at Veronica Beard, where sisters-in-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard update American classics with novelty and, for resort, athletic undertones. They looked to the glamour and sexual femininity of the Eighties and early Nineties, delivering a blend of tailoring this season set against casual sportswear and colorful prints.
Elevated takes on suiting included an off-the-shoulder blazer styled with a multichain belt (which, really, would add considerable edge to any outfit) and a red blazer featuring the designers’ take on the double-breasted silhouette. Leather suiting and twinsets with detachable gold chains leaned heavily toward the Eighties, but were toned down with graphic “Veronica” Ts and track-inspired techno knit pants with great recovery.
There was also novelty. To wit: Bold plaids, scarf prints and engineered florals provided a playful visual element while denim featured crystal buttons. The designers also reworked classics like the trenchcoat into a cropped style with athletic stripes, a reversible version with plaid fabric, and into one of their signature dickeys.
With the anticipated opening of two more brick-and-mortar stores by the end of this year, the designers will need to offer as many dickey options as possible to the new customers they’ll be sure

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Fendi Resort 2019

The modern woman’s combination of strength and delicacy served as the main inspiration for this beautiful Fendi resort collection. In keeping with the brand’s latest fall runway show, creative director Karl Lagerfeld continued to define a special wardrobe where sartorial shapes and precise silhouettes were softened by handkerchief embroideries and exquisite, precious details.
Impeccable double-breasted jackets were cinched at the waist with sporty backpack-like closures and matched with cigarette pants showing attached pleated skirts. The latter were also shown in asymmetric kilt-inspired versions, as well in polished midi options, including a linen and silk style featuring the FF logo pattern in a fresh combination of aqua green and white. The look was finished with a matching bomber, an iconic item in a quintessential Fendi wardrobe, which also requires a touch of fur. To wit, the luxurious offering of fur pieces was centered on featherweight styles, spanning from a reversible fox fur vest embellished with a delicate eyelet collar to a shaved mink coat with floral appliqués in sorbet tones.
The hyper-elegant attitude of the ready-to-wear collection echoed in the accessories range. While the metallic cowboy boots introduced and eccentric touch, the bag styles were mainly presented in essential, quite minimal options, such as a Peekaboo X-Lite in

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Neil Portnow, Embattled Head of Grammys, to Step Down in 2019

Mr. Portnow, who has led the Recording Academy since 2002, has been engulfed in controversy over the past year.
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Gucci Cruise 2019

ARLES, France — If cruise shows are all about transporting the audience, Alessandro Michele deserves the award for the most dazzling spectacle to date in a season thick with powerful imagery.
The Gucci creative director chose the Alyscamps, a Roman necropolis in the southern French city of Arles, as the setting for his show, and took full advantage of the area’s epic history with a nighttime display that transcended space and time with a trove of references ancient and modern.
Clouds of smoke and rows of church candles bathed the open-air space in a Gothic ambience, enhanced by the haunting soundtrack of Claudio Monteverdi’s “Vespers for the Blessed Virgin.”
As night fell and guests including Saoirse Ronan, A$ AP Rocky, Salma Hayek and Christian Lacroix took their places on mirrored cubes, a line of fire ignited down the central alleyway, signaling the start of the show.
The models swept out thick and fast in outfits so intricate, the eye struggled to keep pace. Michele sent out a dizzying 114 looks for women and men, mixing brand signatures — think plaid skirts, floral silk prints and tiger patterns — with outfits designed for fantasy characters ranging from rock stars to 19th-century widows.
Shrouded in velvet dresses and richly

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Coach 1941 Resort 2019

On Stuart Vevers’ first trip to Los Angeles when he was 21, he went to The Viper Room. “It stuck in my head,” said Vevers of the rock club on the Sunset Strip frequented by stars like Johnny Depp and River Phoenix, who famously overdosed there in 1993. Vevers presumably had fonder, though not necessarily less gritty memories in mind when he enlisted The Viper Room to collaborate on logo graphics that appeared throughout his Coach resort collection, which was inspired by L.A. lounge lizards, Marilyn Manson and Susan Seidelman’s early Eighties film “Smithereens.”
Vevers cleaned up those netherworld references for a lineup that was very glam-grunge. He pointed out that rather than going on a tropical vacation, the Coach girl is thinking about going out during the time resort is in store. It’s holiday season, so he gave her chunky, oversize knit cardigans — some printed with L.A. palm trees — a long patchwork velvet dress and minis with Victoriana ruffled collars and sleeves. Long, skinny fringed silk scarves, studded creepers and logo bags topped off the multilayered, highly decorative look.
For the men, Vevers expressed the rock ‘n’ roll look with leather pants and bomber jackets in an ombré palette

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Louis Vuitton Cruise 2019

SAINT-PAUL-DE-VENCE, France — Accustomed to showing his Louis Vuitton collections in the majestic surroundings of the Louvre museum, Nicolas Ghesquière opted for an equally exceptional, but altogether more confidential, art destination for his cruise display on Monday.
Guests including Emma Stone, Jennifer Connelly, Léa Seydoux, Justin Theroux and Ruth Negga trekked up to the southern French hilltop village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence for the show, held at the Fondation Maeght, a private art foundation whose gardens are filled with works by the likes of Alberto Giacometti and Marc Chagall.
Those arriving from the Dior cruise show in Paris appeared to have brought the unseasonal weather with them. Mist shrouded the treetops, giving the venue a melancholic feel enhanced by the haunting live soundtrack that greeted guests at the pre-show cocktail.
Milling about in the Giacometti Courtyard, Grace Coddington sported silk pajamas blending the LV monogram with her signature drawings of cats. It turned out the fashion editor has created a capsule collection of accessories with Ghesquière that is set to hit stores in October.
“We’re very close friends and I love everything he does, so he asked me to work with him, and it was more than a pleasure,” she said. Coddington, who published the original

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Front Row at Dior Cruise 2019

SPIRITED ELEMENTS: The rain hadn’t really begun in earnest when guests trickled in through a cobblestone alley to take their seats lining the white sandy ring for the Dior Cruise show.
“Maybe we can find an umbrella somewhere,” Billie Lourd laughed as she hunted for her seat. The actress is gearing up for her eighth season of “American Horror Story” and working on a movie called “Booksmart,” directed by Olivia Wilde.
“She’s a goddess! I’m so excited,” Lourd said with a grin. Surveying the arena on the grounds of Chantilly’s historic stables, she professed her love of horses but said she can’t be around them for long.
“I’m allergic and it’s the saddest thing ever, but honestly, I’ll still go on them because they’re so beautiful,” she said wistfully.
“I used to keep my horse in a much smaller affair,” noted Alexa Chung as she entered the 18th-century edifice, built by the Prince of Condé, who expected to be reincarnated as a horse.
Florence Pugh, who plays a wrestler in the upcoming film “Fighting with My Family” glided through the hubbub, as the raindrops thickened, her hair pulled up and elegantly woven in the back.
“I grew up on horses. I used to live in Spain where

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Valentino Resort 2019

A little Jackie O, a little archive, delivered with street attitude and a whole lot of Roman allure. Such were the elements comprising Pierpaolo Piccioli’s feisty-chic resort collection for Valentino.
Once again, Piccioli presented the collection in New York, at the grand James B. Duke mansion on East 78th Street. Though he loves New York and remains dedicated to showing his pre-seasons here, this time around his heart was back in Rome, though not the city of romantic cliché. “Rome is layers and layers,” Piccioli said. “I wanted to capture the life of the street but in a very personal way. Rome isn’t only a postcard, it’s the harmony of many layers together — Baroque, paganism, angels, industrial, the churches, all of it. When you think street, you think New York. But Rome also has a contemporary street life.”
Piccioli thus commissioned photographer Andrea Spotorno to shoot the look book there, not the “postcard Rome,” but the little corners, all around.” There is indeed a “Jackie O in Italy” vibe, both in the immediacy of the shots (think paparazzi) and in the styling, with head scarves and giant glasses punctuating most of the looks.
The designer’s approach to the shoot parallels that which he

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Dsquared2 Resort 2019

“Chic Vicious!,” exclaimed Dean Caten during a walk-through of the Dsquared2 resort collection, which he codesigned with twin brother Dan. With a smart pun, the designer summed up the most authentic spirit of the collection, which reworked a punkish inspiration — hence the link to Sex Pistols’ Sid Vicious — with the brand’s signature glamorous vibe.
In particular, photos of the music icon served as an inspiration for the playful poster-like prints, which portray the designers. The images were splashed on a range of pieces spanning from cotton T-shirts and tunic dresses to a peacoat showing the back embellished with a maxi zippered detail and a see-through layer. Ditto for a relaxed silk bomber matched with coordinated fluid pants.
“This is good stuff you can wear,” said Dean Caten, highlighting the versatile and unfussy spirit of the lineup, which was strong on some of the brand’s signature staples. These included cropped, distressed denim pants, an impeccable tailored jacket, a sleek leather coat embellished with bondage-inspired ties, as well as military short pants embellished with feminine lace inserts and sensual skin-tight black frocks.
The collection was a well-executed and commercially savvy compilation of urban designs for frisky girls who don’t like to be put in a corner.

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Etro Resort 2019

Veronica Etro opened the doors of a secret garden for resort.
A dreamy, feminine and charming atmosphere was injected into her sophisticated lineup where the discreet elegance of uncomplicated silhouettes was peppered with a kaleidoscopic range of multicolor prints.
Botanical motifs and new versions of the house’s signature paisley patterns, which were updated with intricate floral graphics, gave a joyful attitude to relaxed pants with striped tops, easy-chic frocks with delicate ribbon details, maxidresses injected with a boho mood, as well as fluid Kimono-inspired silk robe coats.
Introducing a more rational, geometric feel, colorblock patterns appeared on a languid one-shoulder tunic paired with wide-leg trousers, while a sweet, whimsical touch was added via a motif mixing stars and a stylized dancing couple — the protagonists of a modern fairy tale.

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Emilio Pucci Resort 2019

The joyful, flamboyant mood of a tropical summer: For the resort season, Emilio Pucci’s design team embraced a happy, colorful aesthetic that injected an energetic vibe into the brand’s lineup.
A kaleidoscope of new prints, featuring a more graphic look compared to archival motifs, was juxtaposed with eye-catching solids, such as sunflower yellow, hot pink and strawberry red. There was something sensual about the fitted dresses and the mini skirts embellished with embroideries and trimmed with raffia fringes.
Breezy caftans were decorated with prints at the cuffs, while silk inserts gave a luxurious touch to cropped, wide-leg jeans. If a foldable maxi K-way showed the most sporty and practical face of the brand, evening dresses featuring all-over embroideries were designed for jet-setters.

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Dior Cruise 2019: Preview

Maria Grazia Chiuri may have curbed her wandering instincts for this year’s Christian Dior cruise show, but her inspiration travels across continents.
Chances were strong that her collection, to be unveiled on Friday night in the Great Stables of the Domaine de Chantilly, would weave in an equestrian theme, but the designer is sure to surprise with outfits inspired by the female riders, called escaramuzas, that compete in Mexico’s version of rodeo.
With their embellished sombreros and embroidered cotton dresses, which flare out into tiered skirts layered with petticoats, the riders cut dashing figures as they perform stunts at full gallop, all the while riding sidesaddle.
The fearlessness of the sport taps right into Chiuri’s love for strong women, a running thread in all her collections since she took over as creative director for women’s wear in 2016, marking her debut show with “We should all be feminists” T-shirts.
“The reason I like the escaramuzas is because they do something that is so macho — rodeo — in our vision, but they decided to do that in their traditional dresses which are so pretty, so feminine,” she said during a fitting at Dior’s ready-to-wear workshop in Paris.
Chiuri, who has visited Mexico several times, returned

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Fabiana Filippi Resort 2019

Luxurious materials and shimmering effects are balanced by a sense of relaxed sophistication in the Fabiana Filippi resort collection, the first pre-collection introduced by the brand.
Cashmere and shearling, but also soft nylons, are laminated to inject a sparkling feel into the lineup, which this season included a range of outfits fitting the varied needs of contemporary women.
Lightweight double-faced coats are worn with unfussy wrap skirts, while chic pajama-inspired sets and elevated tracksuits are rooted in a practical, urban aesthetic.
A feminine feel is injected into the maxi frocks, crafted from both draped tulle and plissé silk, while an organza jacket combines a see-through look with a tailored cut.

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Oscar de la Renta Resort 2019

Describing a fashion show as very “mother-of-the-bride” is not always a compliment. Yet it was accurate and deliberate in the case of Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim’s resort collection for Oscar de la Renta. If there was ever a time to go in that direction, this was it.
Garcia and Kim were already looking at a Wedgwood book by Rizzoli as a key reference for the lineup in February when “we got Meghan [Markle’s] phone call to help dress her mom for the royal wedding,” Garcia said after Tuesday’s show, referring to the ODLR ensemble Doria Ragland wore to her daughter’s, the Duchess of Sussex, nuptials last weekend. He noted that the request to dress the most watched mother-of-the-bride in recent memory and the bridal registry china inspiration were a happy coincidence, so the designers went with it.
The English pottery brand’s heritage informed many of the collection’s colors and patterns. Everything in the lineup would be appropriate for an event on a wedding weekend itinerary — the rehearsal dinner, reception, bridesmaids’ dresses, morning after brunch. The show opened with a series of ivory and pastel stretch wool dresses that were minimal in shape with hemlines cut like architectural petals. There were

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Jil Sander Resort 2019

Purity, elegance, strength and quintessential beauty.
A brand with a strong heritage and a very specific identity, Jil Sander over the last few years has struggled to find its own way to refresh its image for contemporary customers and consequentially return to the relevance of its heyday.
In a fashion scenario dominated by a new maximalism and by untamed street wave, discreet sophistication, rationalism and a less-is-more approach might be considered out of fashion. But, actually, will good taste ever go out of fashion?
No, according to Lucie and Luke Meier who delivered another convincing collection for the Jil Sander brand. With their quiet, soft-spoken approach, they are actually succeeding in developing a new contemporary language, which speaks of Jil Sander but through codes in-sync with the current times.
The designers showcased a realistic wardrobe, filled with urban, highly wearable options, yet peppered with a fascinating twist. Their constant research for an approach projected into the future yet anchored by a personal and sensitive attitude resulted in the delicacy of the mattress-inspired quilted fabrics, the tablecloth-like Vichy patterns and the stretch seersuckers developed in a sorbet palette of light blue and yellow.
The silhouettes spanned from more constructed designs, such as impeccable coats with hourglass lines, to sharp-cut shirtdresses in crisp cotton

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Roberto Cavalli Resort 2019

Traditionally, the Roberto Cavalli label is linked with the high-end lifestyle. Creative director Paul Surridge tapped into this trait for the brand’s resort collection, which offers a versatile wardrobe for independent women who travel in style.
The fashion house’s signature wild animal motifs are juxtaposed with paisley and floral patterns for a lineup that combines more off-duty, eye-catching outfits with urban attire infused with contemporary functionality.
Lace-up details run over jackets and dresses, offering a modern take on the safari theme, while jacquards in leopard and python motifs are crafted for trenchcoats and biker jackets. The same patterns are splashed on fluid asymmetric frocks, also shown in fresh and colorful flower prints.
The brand’s craftsmanship is exalted by a covetable trenchcoat realized though the combination of several python vertical stripes in a range of pastel tones, while a ceramic mosaic on the lapel of a suit jacket shapes a sophisticated crocodile pattern.
Called in to refresh Cavalli’s image, Surridge is looking for the right way to balance the house’s flamboyant attitude with his more subdued and rational style. It’s a difficult task, but the first steps are promising.

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Escada Sport Resort 2019

The sport collection allowed Niall Sloan to broaden his night sky and morning gardens inspiration from mainline into younger territory with casual fabrics and louder prints. Denim ranged from the minimally decorated with easily removable jewelry to jackets completely covered in star-shaped sequined patches. A paillette varsity sweater echoed the brand’s Nineties beginnings, as did tracksuits cut with lace and jeans with Lurex track stripes down the legs. Florals were more fitting here than in mainline, spanning flirty pleated dresses to scarf-print gowns and tops. Yet some of the best examples of a casual-youth vibe lacked any print at all, like the various takes on shirting, white leather twinsets and a flowy shirtdress with playful sheen.

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