Traditional cloth gets modern look as Burkinabe designers push African fashion

‘Koko Dunda’, an ancient cloth handmade in Burkina Faso, is being given a new twist as designers hope to make the colourful fabric popular again.


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From coffee sacks to couture: young designers celebrate green fashion

Ten emerging ‘green’ designers present their latest looks to industry insiders hoping to win mentoring and a spot at Milan Fashion Week. Rough cut (no reporter narration).


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Alive and Kicking: London Men’s Designers Setting the Fashion Agenda

LONDON — With a thinning calendar and the absence of big-name brands — from J.W. Anderson to Grace Wales Bonner and Craig Green, this season at least, while he shows at Pitti — some in the industry have been wondering whether London Fashion Week Men’s can hold its own for much longer.
The event, which this year has dwindled to three days from four, is not giving up and a small, yet noteworthy, group of young designers is moving to the forefront, moving the needle on men’s wear by approaching genderless dressing in new ways, and experimenting with silhouettes and sustainable fabrics.
Retailers are paying attention, too, and are looking to London, which kick-starts the European men’s fashion calendar, to set the mood of the season and act as a crucible for trends and ideas.
“London is the first to present its collections, so it sets the tone for us of what’s to come. Despite all the big name exits, the event is still relevant and it’s important for us to attend and support our home-grown talent,” said David Aquilina, head of men’s wear buying at Harvey Nichols.
For Browns, the British retailer that made its name supporting emerging talent, there’s still an array of promising

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Louis Vuitton Locks In Designers

PARIS — Louis Vuitton is primed to keep powering its growth trajectory with its trio of top talents.
On Wednesday, the French luxury brand, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said it has renewed Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract as artistic director of women’s collections. Specific terms of the deal were not disclosed.
The announcement cements the relationship between Vuitton and Ghesquière, who was signed on to design the company’s women’s line in 2013, succeeding Marc Jacobs. Under his tenure, the world’s biggest luxury brand has seen “unprecedented” growth in ready-to-wear and leather goods, Vuitton said in a statement.
Renewal of Ghesquière’s contract completes the trifecta of moves Vuitton needed to lock in its design talent across its various product categories for the foreseeable future. The house in March appointed Virgil Abloh to head men’s design. Off-White’s founder succeeded Kim Jones in the role and Abloh will show his first collection in June during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital (Jones, after a few months’ hiatus, returned to LVMH to take on the role of artistic director of rtw and accessories at Dior Homme).
And in April, Vuitton revealed that high-profile designer Francesca Amfitheatrof, previously of Tiffany & Co., would take over the role

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WearingIrish NYC Helps Ireland-Based Designers Make U.S. Connections

Ten designers from Ireland hoping to break into the American market, came to New York this week for the “WearingIrish NYC” event, a new platform for promoting Irish fashion.
They also came to break stereotypes of Irish design being mired in tradition and lacking modernity. Tweeds and knitwear are iconic to the region, though organizers of WearingIrish NYC say the participating designers are adept at both giving “a nod” to Ireland’s heritage and maintaining a contemporary appeal.
Selected from 170 qualified candidates, the winners included Aine, Alison Conneely, Bláithín Ennis, De Bruir, Inner Island, Jennifer Rothwell, Natalie B. Coleman, Sands and Hall, The Tweed Project and Triona. Each showed their fall 2018 collections to American retail buyers, editors, business and fashion leaders at WearingIrish NYC, a mini trade show at the Bank of Ireland, one of the sponsors of the three-day event, that also featured panels and networking. None of the designers currently sell American retailers, but some have sold products online to American consumers.
“We are firmly rooted in tradition and we work with weavers on the West Coast of Ireland. But our design philosophy is filtered through a modernist lens. Our cuts are very contemporary,” said Conneely, who utilizes Donegal tweed and Connemara lace in her

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Designers Use Epson Technology for Themed Couture Presentation

DRESSED-UP TECHNOLOGY: For a fourth year, Epson is hosting its annual “digital couture project” pre-New York Fashion Week. The theme of the Feb. 6 presentation, to be held in New York, is “Cosmopolitan Couture with Impossible Colors — How Does Your Culture Dress Up?” Participating designers from North and Latin America will showcase designs that used Epson’s textile printing solutions. Keith Kratzberg, president and chief executive officer of Epson America Inc., said the “future of fashion is customization — from the colors and prints, to the size and shape of garments — all on-demand.”
Kratzberg said the company’s “digital-imaging technology is changing the business of fashion, providing a platform for designers to print higher-quality, more unique designs for customers on-demand, as well as the ability to print just in time.”
Prior to the fashion show, Epson is hosting a panel discussion on how digital technology is changing the fashion industry. Panel participants include: interior designer Ryan Korban; Mark Sunderland from Thomas Jefferson University, and Aliza Licht, executive vice president of brand marketing and communications for Alice + Olivia.
 
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The Future of Retail Is AI-Powered and ‘Merchant-Imagined’
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Five Below’s

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‘Black Panther: Welcome to Wakanda’ Fashion Event Features 10 Designers

“Black Panther: Welcome to Wakanda,” a nod to the fashion inspired by the new superhero movie, will be presented by Marvel Studios on Feb. 12 as part of New York Fashion Week.
The red carpet event takes place at Industria at 775 Washington Street from 8 to 10 p.m., and several stars from the movie are expected to attend.
Designers including Chromat, Cushnie et Ochs, Fear of God, Ikiré Jones, Laquan Smith, Sophie Theallet and Tome worked with Marvel Studios to create one-of-a-kind pieces interpreting different characters and themes from the movie. The designers were selected for their dedication to empowerment and individualism through fashion.
The seven bespoke pieces will be unveiled the night of the event and installed in a Wakanda-inspired venue that guests can explore. Following the event, the looks will be auctioned off via Charitybuzz.com in support of Save the Children.
Jones called the experience “awesome and great.”
“I was honored, and I saw the film with my partner. It’s an attempt to help uplift the voices of people who have been marginalized historically and in the present day, both in the U.S. and globally, and Ikiré Jones specifically does that by using fashion as a vehicle to address these issues. It’s beautiful

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CES 2017 – Car Designers Remake the Steering Wheel for the Age of Autonomy

In a world where cars drive themselves, the steering wheel must go way beyond 10 and 2.
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Back to Black? Designers React to the Red Carpet in the Season of Time’s Up

As the Hollywood awards season carries on — next up, the SAG Awards on Sunday — WWD asked designers for their thoughts on the black dress movement: Specifically, reaction to the Time’s Up statement made at the Golden Globes, how wearing black should proceed and be perceived throughout the season and if fashion brands, as suppliers (usually gratis) of the fashion statement are getting their due.
Donatella Versace: “I do not think this moment will pass so easily. And I am not referring only to what is happen today, but to what, during the years, during the centuries, women had to endure in order to survive in this society and to find their right space in society. It’s useless to deny that men and women are not treated equally and I can finally see both men — some smart and illuminated ones — and women supporting the fight for equality. I think and I hope that people are choosing to wear black because they believe in this issue that caused so much pain to so many women.
We should not forget that actresses are women. I dress them not because I treat them like walking advertising, but because I have a relationship

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The Paris Vintage Shoe Store That’s a Resource for Top Designers

PARIS — Situated among orthopedic shoe stores, natural wine bars and bobo restaurants, La Petite Fripe sells vintage footwear to fashion designers and their Parisian muses.
The pocket-sized boutique, located in the 11th arrondissement’s trendier zone, exclusively sells unworn, dead stock vintage shoes. While only open since September, the store has quickly culled a fan base including girl-about-town Clara Cornet, model Louise Follain and actress Pauline Jacquard. It has also become a sourcing ground of inspiration for footwear designers at some of Paris’ leading fashion houses, with designers accounting for half the shop’s sales.
Founded by antique and vintage dealer Lhassan Oubakrim, La Petite Fripe’s shelves have recently housed an assortment of Eighties metallic mule pumps, dandy loafers and embroidered mukluk boots. Shoes are typically priced around 80 euros, with boots hitting the highest price point at about 280 euros.
Here, Oubakrim speaks with WWD on about his store.
WWD: What is your work experience prior to opening this boutique?
Lhassan Oubakrim: I have been a bargain hunter and an antique dealer for years. I love unexpected discoveries and the feeling of finding one amazing piece amongst a mountain of s–t. It is both my work and my passion.
I had another shop before. The first Petite Fripe was on

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Designers Turn Out for Paris Rwanda Benefit

FESTIVE SPIRIT: It was beginning to look a lot like Christmas as guests flowed into Yannick Alléno’s three-star restaurant, the Pavillon Ledoyen, on Thursday night Numéro editor in chief Babeth Djian’s annual dinner for Rwandan children, with proceeds going to Les Amis des Enfants du Monde (Friends of the Children of the World).
Designers including Olivier Rousteing, Alber Elbaz, Alexandre Vauthier, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christan Louboutin — who took Djian for a spin on the dance floor — got into the festive spirit.
Sparkle and black was the dress code with outfits ranging from Karidja Touré’s peak-shouldered silver and black jacket by Mugler to the matching, jewelry-loaded, black and gold Saint Laurent ensembles sported by rising rock star brother-sister duo Natalie and Elliot Bergman of Wild Belle who had been flown in by the house for the event. “I love bells,” deadpanned Elliot Bergman, whipping out his phone to share a photo of a set of bronze bells he has on display in a Paris gallery. The group is recording their third album, “a back-to-roots affair,” between Chicago and Los Angeles.
Dressed in a sheer gold leaf-embroidered black gown layered over a T-shirt by Louis Vuitton, French actress Ana Girardot, who has

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Jil Sander’s Work Speaks for Itself at Designer’s First Retrospective in Frankfurt

FRANKFURT — Her work speaks for itself. That is the message Jil Sander conveyed in no uncertain terms Thursday, first by skipping the preopening press conference for her first solo retrospective at Frankfurt’s Museum for Applied Art. To be sure, the exhibit dramatically celebrates the power of less on three floors and 32,000 square feet of sparsely filled, precisely staged space.
“Jil Sander: Present Tense” opens Friday and runs through May. It’s been a project museum director Matthias Wagner K. said was on the top of his wish list when he joined the museum five years ago, but Sander was not easy to convince. For one thing, she’s not fond of looking back. For another, she’s no fan of the customary still-life parade. “I’m not really a friend of clothes on mannequins, especially clothes that someone has worn before. It’s not really my dream,” she told WWD prior to the opening. What changed her mind?

Richard Meier’s white L-shaped, three-cube complex, with its ramps, open vistas, space flooded with light, and a mutable floor plan where walls could appear or disappear. After visiting the building, Sander decided to take the plunge, and for the past year and a half, she, her team

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Artists and Designers Rally to Help Hurricane Maria Victims in Puerto Rico

FOR A GREATER GOOD: Rather than just talk about concern for Hurricane Maria victims in Puerto Rico, hairstylist Dana Boyer and makeup artist Erin Green agreed a fund-raiser was in order.
With the help of Pace Gallery’s shipping manager Tim Strazza and independent producer Travis Kiewel, their NY4PR event will be held Nov. 2 at Think!Chinatown x ChaShaMa space at 384 Broadway. All proceeds from the event will benefit Unidos/The Hispanic Foundation. Seventy artists, photographers and contributors have already signed on and between 200 and 300 supporters are expected.
With only 2 percent of schools open, and electricity still a problem for most of Puerto Rico, Boyer said of the upcoming fund-raiser: “It felt important. It felt that it needed to happen.”
The roster of participants includes Inez & Vinoodh, Bibi Cornejo-Borthwick, Curtis Kulig, Tim Barber, Petra Collins, Daniel Shea, Lachlan Bailey, Dan Martensen, Jay Miriam, Meriem Bennani, Paul Wackers, Chad Moore, Signe Pierce, Daniel Arnold and Joe Garvey. From the fashion and beauty crowd, Trademark, Joanna Vargas, Alumnae, Catbird, Nova and Anna Sheffield will be contributing items for the auction. Donations will also be accepted at the door with NY4PR aiming to raise upwards of $ 60,000, Boyer said.
“These events are always so

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CFDA & Lifewtr Designers Emerge at Chelsea Piers

CFDA & Lifewtr presented on Thursday to a packed house at Chelsea Piers that included Katie Holmes, the collections of three emerging designers and graduates of the CFDA+ accelerated educational program: Adam Dalton Blake, Tiffany Huang and Ghazaleh Khalifeh.
“I’m looking forward to the exposure,” said Dalton Blake, whose Fifteen Love collection was inspired by tennis uniforms from the Eighties. The designs were reminiscent of the outfits worn by Ben Stiller and Gene Hackman’s “Royal Tenenbaum” characters, especially the quirky factor. A photo of Dalton Blake’s father is printed on the back of some of the garments.
Khalifeh was inspired by different cultures, seen through the lens of an Iranian nomadic woman — the designer — crossing borders. “With so much material in our world, the garment industry should up-cycle,” said Khalifeh, whose beautiful and exotic pieces had metallic filament woven through fabrics, including old Afghani rugs.
The collection of Tiffany Huang explores fears and superstitions with help from virtual and artificial reality. For example, a sandwich boardlike blue tunic is covered with painted eyes that are sad when it rains. “Each garment is embedded with technology,” said Kai Lu, who worked on the tech. “Once you enter the world of the clothes,

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Julianne Moore, Colin Firth, and Italy’s Top Designers Honor the Late Franca Sozzani in Venice

Franca Sozzani’s son Francesco Carrozzini presents the inaugural award in his late mother’s honor to Julianne Moore at the Venice Film Festival
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CFDA and LIFEWTR Partner to Boost Three Young Designers

JUST ADD WATER: Three up-and-coming designers are getting a visibility boost thanks to the strategic partnership between the CFDA and LIFEWTR, Pepsico’s premium water brand.
Adam Dalton Blake, Tiffany Huang and Ghazaleh Khalifeh have each been tapped to have their designs displayed on nearly 40 million bottles of LIFEWTR for its Series 3. All three designers are among the participants in the CFDA+ spotlight program. Each will present their collections, which will incorporate patterns from their respective Series 3 bottle designs, on the first day of New York Fashion Week.
“I’m from Taiwan, which is an island so we are always surrounded by water. So water is something that feels very natural to me,” said Huang, who developed prints with a friend skilled in augmented reality. “This is an incredible opportunity. Because when you are starting out as a young designer, it’s very hard to find people who just believe in you.”
She, Blake and Khalifeh will also receive mentoring and networking opportunities in the months ahead.
Olga Osminkina-Jones, vice president of hydration at PepsiCo Global Beverage Group, declined to comment on its financial commitment but said the goal was to help emerging fashion designers “get their names out there, to be discovered and

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HBO Links With Designers To Create Limited Edition Game of Thrones Apparel

The influence that Game of Thrones has had on pop culture for the past few years has been obvious and now HBO is taking things a step further with “Rep The Realm.” Rep The Realm is a new campaign that has HBO collaborating with some of today’s top designers including Billionaire Boys Club, ALIFE, 40s & Shorties, Dee & Ricky, Koio, V/SUAL and Carrots.

The name of the game is to create some dope limited edition micro-collections inspired by the hit HBO series.

The latest contribution from the Rep The Realm campaign comes from V/SUAL with a butters skateboard deck that features a map of the Seven Kingdoms of Westeros, which may or may not be made from dragonglass. Ok, it’s not made from

Ok, it’s not made from dragonglass, but it’s still hot fire, though.

Check out pics of the deck below and on the flip.


Photo: Rep The Realm

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Style Notes: Poppy Delevingne Signs With WME and IMG Models; Khloe Kardashian Will Mentor Young Designers


In case you missed it.

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Made in America: Four Fashion Designers on What It Takes To Do So


Nanette Lepore, Billy Reid, Edie Parker’s Brett Heyman and Laurel Berman of Black Halo discuss the how and why of crafting their collections in New York, L.A. and points in between.

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Designers on the Sidelines: Former Stars Seek New Worlds

LONDON — Where are they now? Observing fashion from the sidelines — or plotting their next move?
After years — sometimes decades — of headlining major fashion houses, unprecedented numbers of design talents are no longer working in the 24/7 glare of the industry.
They’ve quit their jobs — or been sacked. Some are taking extended sabbaticals or focusing on their personal lives. Others have moved on to new industries, or are thinking of fresh approaches in a fast-changing fashion world.
Designers  who were once much fawned over and who are now on the sidelines include Riccardo Tisci, Alber Elbaz, Hedi Slimane, Stefano Pilati, Peter Copping, Francisco Costa, Rodolfo Paglialunga, Frida Giannini and Marco Zanini, to name a few. The latest left idle is Bouchra Jarrar, who exited Lanvin after showing just two collections for the house.
The cutthroat nature of the industry means big-name designers are treated like European Premier League football managers: No matter how talented you are, it’s one bad season, and you’re out, said professor Frances Corner, head of the London College of Fashion.
Industry observers — and those who work with designers — say it’s a sign of these fast-paced, digitally driven times, where the pressure is on to deliver multiple

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Exclusive Sketches: Designers Stand Behind Paris Amidst Tragedy

Designers shared with WWD their original sketches created in response to the tragic events in Paris.
RELATED CONTENT: On Twitter, Instagram Fashion Community Reacts to Tragedy in Paris>>

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Designers Apartment Cites Strong Turnout

STRENGTH IN NUMBERS: Now in its seventh season, the Designers Apartment initiative, backed by the Chambre Syndicale, has become a fixture on the Paris schedule for many a buyer.
“In terms of new talent, I thought the Designer’s Apartment showroom was excellent,” said Macy’s group vice president and fashion director Nicole Fischelis. “The quality and the diversity and the integrity of the design from each of those designers was quite remarkable.”
This season the showroom gathers 11 young France-based designers at the Atelier Richelieu until Oct. 9, including three newcomers, A. Guery, Criloi and Victoria/Tomas.
Glenn Martens, designer for Y/Project, perhaps one of the most established brands showing, was attending for the fourth time.
“It’s very difficult to get a foot in the door as a young designer, and being backed by the Chambre Syndicale is a big help,” he said, specifying that the initiative was also useful for exchanging tips on issues like production and logistics between designers.
“A lot of good stores have come,” he added of the current session.
Iris Cantabri, showing for the fourth time, was offering a less conceptual collection than in the past in order to appeal to a broader audience, and had also dropped prices to an average of

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The Designers Behind Common Projects on the Brand’s 10-Year Success


Peter Poopat and Flavio Girolami rarely like to speak about the brand, but on Tuesday evening, the dynamic duo did a Q&A with MR PORTER editor Dan Rookwood.

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Tom Ford Taps a Lady: Gaga to Appear in Designer’s Runway Video for Spring 2016

LONDON — Tom Ford is taking to the small screen to showcase his spring 2016 collection, putting paid to speculation that he was skipping the show season altogether.
The designer has tapped Lady Gaga to appear in the film, a runway video of the collection, which was shot by Nick Knight. The online video will be released to some editors in the early hours of Friday, and everyone will be able to view it at 1 p.m. CET on the designer’s Web site.
Ford told WWD: “Instead of having a traditional show this season, I decided to try something new. I wanted to think about how to present a collection in a cinematic way that was designed from its inception to be presented online.”
Ford’s choice is no shocker. The designer-turned-film director is in full production for his second big-screen effort, “Nocturnal Animals,” and will be shooting that until the end of November. The film stars Amy Adams and Jake Gyllenhaal, and is an adaptation of the 1993 novel “Tony and Susan” by Austin Wright, which is a novel within a novel. The movie is due for release next year.
The all-star cast also includes Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Armie Hammer, Isla Fisher, Kim Basinger, and costume design

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International Designers Set Up Showrooms for Paris Fashion Week

PARIS — Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen aren’t the only out-of-town designers with Paris on their mind. Czech, Chinese, German and Belgian creators, among others, set up showrooms to attract international attention during Paris Fashion Week.
The French fashion’s governing body dubs the designers coming as far afield as China, Finland, Austria and Great Britain as “Les Bienvenus à Paris” (“The Welcome to Paris”).
Paris has always appreciated talented non-French designers — think Raf Simons at Dior, Phoebe Philo at Céline, the fashion collective behind Vêtements or Sacai’s Chitose Abe — who show in Paris.
The Row slipped a presentation into the already-packed Paris calendar on the first day of the season, giving a strong signal that Paris is more than ever a huge draw.
Around 50,000 professionals flow into the City of Light for its fashion week.
“Paris is a lab to discover [talents]….Paris is to fashion what Silicon Valley is to new technologies,” said Serge Carreira, a lecturer at Sciences Po Paris.
Pre Helsinki, an event aiming to raise awareness of Finnish designers, returns to Paris for its third installment. Satu Maaranen, the platform’s cofounder and creative director and a past Hyères winner, explained: “Paris is the most important area to be represented in, in

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Top 25 Red Carpet Designers 2015


Those dresses you saw at the Emmys didn’t just happen. They began in the imagination of these talents, who use Hollywood stars as both muse and marketing, as the billion-dollar players talk shop on the eve of awards-season domination. Says Tom Ford: “It’s about dressing the right person in the right dress to create a truly memorable moment.”

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London’s Designers Burst Into New Categories

LONDON – Bigger equals better.
As London Fashion Week shifts into high gear, designers up and down the calendar are building out their brands, firing off capsule collections and marching into new categories as funding flourishes and the British economy continues to grow. Peter Pilotto, Pringle, Christopher Kane and Osman are among the names branching out into new categories as their businesses gain increasing traction in a city more famous for struggling — rather than commercially successful — runway talent.
“The vibe in London is completely different from the one in Paris right now,” said Gavin Haig, Belstaff’s chief executive officer and the former international managing director of Cartier, based in Paris. “London and the U.K. are in great shape compared with Paris and Milan, and the economy here is growing. The funding is here, and it’s a great city both for customers and trade.”
Belstaff is ramping up its own London-based business with enhanced men’s, women’s and accessories lines and a new collaboration with David Beckham. The former footballer appears in “Outlaws,” a short film that will be released Tuesday following the brand’s London Fashion Week show.
Fabrizio Zappaterra, a private equity investor who is on the boards of Temperley London and Hunter, said that

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Designers Named for CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s Americans in Paris

NEXT STOP PARIS: As New York Fashion Week starts to wind down, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen aren’t the only designers with Paris on their minds. The Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue have unrolled the roster for the ninth season of CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s Americans in Paris.
The France-bound designers are Orley’s Alex, Matthew and Samantha Orley; Edie Parker’s Brett Heyman; Simon Miller’s Daniel Corrigan and Jake Sargent; Eva Fehren’s Eva Zuckerman; Gigi Burris Millinery’s Gigi Burris; Grey Ant’s Grant Krajecki and Natalie Levy; Ryan Roche, and Tanya Taylor. Zuckerman and Roche were runners-up for last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.
During Paris Fashion Week, all of the above will be showing their collections to retailers from Oct. 3 to 5 at Le 8 Vavois, which is located at 8 Rue de Valois. In addition to the showroom space, Americans in Paris provides sales, marketing and media support to participants to help them expand their  businesses.
Steven Kolb, president and chief executive officer of the CFDA, said, “Americans in Paris continues to put forward CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund designers who represent a level of talent that can compete in today’s global market.”
Tumi is the initiative’s lead sponsor for the fourth season. Micheal Petry,

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Kanye’s Decision to Show Yeezy Season 2 Disrupts Designers’ Plans

Kanye West’s show, a last-minute addition to New York Fashion Week on Wednesday, Sept. 16 at noon, is causing headaches for at least one fashion designer. Anne Bowen, who planned to launch her new streetwear collection, Nomad VII by Anne Bowen, at the exact same time, is up in arms and scrambling to reschedule.
Another headache: Naeem Khan is also scheduled to show in Kanye’s new time slot.
Bowen told WWD: “We have been prepping for a year for this at considerable financial, labor- and commitment-cost to our company. Our show date has been scheduled for months and has been on the Fashion Calendar for weeks. We went through all the proper channels to make this a reality. And just yesterday we learned that Kanye West is having a show at the same time on the same date as ours.”
“Kanye knows he is a media sensation and it is just not ethical to do this. It’s like we are David and he is Goliath. We have put our heart and soul into our show, and should not be stepped on like this,” continued Bowen.
Consequently, Bowen said she has to move her show date to Thursday, Sept. 17 at 12:30 at the same

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The Sophomores: Novice Designers Talk About Their Return to NYFW

Three designers who launched their collections at New York Fashion Week in February — Gabriela Hearst, Ji Oh and Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock, the husband-and-wife team behind Brock Collection — discuss what they learned from their first experience and what they changed for their second act.
WWD: What was the most exciting part of planning your first NYFW presentation last season?
Gabriela Hearst: It was our launch season and we’d been conceptualizing the project for more than two years, so it had been a long journey to get there. Only a few trusted key people had seen the collection so we were very excited to finally show it.
Ji Oh: The most exciting part for me was the casting. Finding the right face and the right attitude isn’t so easy, but still very fun. When a girl comes in and tries my clothes on and looks great, nothing makes me happier.
Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock: Seeing the world we dreamt of come together was the most exciting part. The days before our presentation were our favorite — the styling, casting, hair and makeup tests, and set design.
 
WWD: What was the most stressful or frustrating part?
G.H.: As the debut season was a very personal collection,

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How to Pull Off an Alexander Wang Haircut: Bangs, Bobs, and More at the Designer’s Spring Show

alexander wang beauty hair

It was something of a homecoming for Alexander Wang. Before taking his final bow at Balenciaga early next month, his 10th anniversary show for his namesake label reminded tonight’s New York audience of what he does best—make cool downtown girls look even cooler. Only this time around, the Wang Gang was more eclectic than ever. Gone were the uniform Erin Wasson–inspired air-dried waves of his early collections. Instead, Anna Ewers, Binx Walton, Kasia Struss, and Mica Arganaraz stomped down the runway in a range of easy styles—from bedhead texture hanging loosely over their shoulders, to knots fastened into sporty sprays at the nape, and fuzzy waves falling over their eyes—not without a few major cut and color transformations, of course. “There’s not one singular idea of beauty anymore,” said hairstylist Guido Palau backstage, pointing out the height variation in the model lineup (runway sophomore Molly Bair clocks in at a towering 6 feet). “It’s really about bringing out your personality.”



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Photo: Sonny Vandevelde / Indigitalimages.com

A look around the room was proof that he had done just that. The girls were beaming. “What we’ve done is emphasize [their natural hair] with [Redken Wind Blown] . . . or a pair of scissors.” Through a tousle of fingers, a snip of length, fringe, or buzzed reshaping, Palau sought to give an edge to each model’s personal style. For Irina Kravchenko, a new set of micro bangs had her calling home to the Ukraine. “I feel so fresh!” she said. Peyton Knight shook off nearly a foot of her wavy brunette for a freshly shorn shag—and as divergent as the style may have been, “It makes me feel more me.” Just before making her runway debut, newcomer Lucinda Schaefers said goodbye to six inches of length, for a look that she described simply as “stronger.” After the last girl exited the runway, Wang played a video montage celebrating his whirlwind career, reminding us, in his words, that when it comes to hair or work, “It’s not worth it if you’re not having fun—you won’t get to enjoy it.”

The post How to Pull Off an Alexander Wang Haircut: Bangs, Bobs, and More at the Designer’s Spring Show appeared first on Vogue.

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Australian Designers to Show in Paris

AUSSIES TAKE TO PARIS AND NEW YORK: After four seasons showing off-schedule in Paris, 31-year-old Perth designer Kym Ellery is moving up to the major leagues. On Oct. 6 at 9.30 a.m. at a to-be-confirmed Paris venue, Ellery will show her spring 2016 collection as part of the Chambre Syndicale’s official schedule for the first time.
Known for her voluminous tailoring and signature oversize bell sleeves and bell-bottom flares, the designer looked for inspiration this season to the 1969 Wrapped Coast project by French environmental sculptors Christo and Jeanne-Claude, which saw 1.5 miles of Sydney’s coastline wrapped in one million square feet of fabric and rope. Ellery’s collection riffs on the draping and wrapping of the body via drawstrings and metal eyelets, many iterations of the cotton shirt and prints inspired by Australian flora and marine coral.
“It feels a little surreal, but also like I’ve been given the green light to just go hard,” Ellery said of being on the official Paris schedule.
Ellery forms part of an expanded Oz presence in Paris this season. Taking a leaf out of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s Americans in Paris book, the Australian Fashion Chamber will stage a 3,767-square-foot Australian Designers Abroad showroom at No.

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Designers Dish: Shoe Mastermind Gianvito Rossi


The Milanese shoe designer mingled (and sipped martinis) with Chrissy Teigen and Mischa Barton, while showing off his newest collection, at Barneys New York in Beverly Hills Thursday evening.

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Nicaragua’s Young Designers Eye Expansion

MANAGUA, Nicaragua — Nicaraguan emerging designers Shantall Lacayo and Ana Alexandra Velazquez are aiming to tap overseas markets by showing at Paris’ Who’s Next in September.
Lacayo, who has sales of $ 80,000 a year, hopes to open 12 points of sale over the next three to five years, with tentative plans to market in Paris, Dubai, Miami, Los Angeles and New York.
In the near-term, she hopes to open doors in Honduras and El Salvador to take her count beyond her current four points of sale in Nicaragua and Panama. Further into the future, she hopes to enter the U.S. and Europe.
“I would love to find an agent to represent me in Paris and one day sell in Bloomingdale’s or Saks [Fifth Avenue],” said Lacayo, who also helps direct the Nicaragua Diseña trade fair, which has an expanding fashion wing that also showcases other design talents.
Lacayo, who was second finalist in the 2010 edition of “Project Runway Latin America,” hopes her spring 2016 will attract attention at Porte de Versailles.
Dubbed “Gypsy Goddess,” the collection features several embroidered dresses inspired by the Nicaraguan genciana flower and featuring geometric and Cubist prints evoking the Seventies. The most popular item has been a handmade, dark-blue nylon-mesh gown

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Lakme Fashion Week to Showcase 100 Designers

MUMBAI, India — There is even more glitz and party spirit at Lakme Fashion Week as the event continues the 15-year celebrations that began with the LFW summer-resort season last March.
The five-day winter/festive season opened Wednesday featuring 100 designers, a big leap from 84 in March. It is being seen as a time to take stock, both of the industry and of the event, which opened with a pre-event show on Tuesday by long-established designer duo Sandeep Khosla and Abu Jani.
The show set the tone for pomp as well as partying with glamorous embroidered evening dresses, a cream and gold color palette and retro music that had the audience foot tapping.
“We have the senior most fashion designers such as Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, Neeta Lulla, Anita Dongre and then we have the younger designers who are launched with the event. That’s the charm of Lakme Fashion Week,” Saket Dhankar, vice president and head of fashion at IMG Reliance Ltd., said.
The fashion week is organized by IMG Reliance Pvt. Ltd., a venture between Reliance Industries Ltd. and sports marketing and management company IMG Worldwide, in collaboration with beauty brand Lakme, which is a subsidiary of consumer goods

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Two Cult L.A. Designers Collaborate on a Sculptural Ceramics Line

dream collective

Each Friday this summer, Kathryn Bentley (designer of the cult Los Angeles jewelry line Dream Collective) and Bari Ziperstein (whose intricate B.Zippy ceramics are a favorite among the fashion and art crowd) spent the day together in Ziperstein’s L.A. studio as a sort of thought experiment. “We discovered similar ways of thinking about structure, pattern, and materials,” says Bentley, who has long collected Ziperstein’s work and also stocked it in her Silver Lake store for the past year. “We talked about everything from angled structures of Cold War Brutalist architecture to the color and patterns of the Memphis Milano movement and raw clay surfaces reminiscent of Future Primitive sculptures.”

The conversations naturally led to a collaboration, and the resulting series of B.Zippy for Dream Collective pots and vases debuted at Dream Collective’s storefront this week. The collection, like all of Ziperstein’s work, is both functional and strikingly sculptural; its column motifs, drip patterns, and matte finishes directly resulted from the duo’s dialogue about aesthetics. And though Bentley left the hands-on making of the pieces to Ziperstein, it was “an intellectual collaboration; we have a similar creative process,” she says. “Bari is a thinker and a true artist.”

Available at Dream Collective, 1404 Micheltorena Street, Los Angeles; dreamcollective.com.



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Photo: Courtesy of Dream Collective

The post Two Cult L.A. Designers Collaborate on a Sculptural Ceramics Line appeared first on Vogue.

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Fashion Flashback: What Top Designers Wore in High School

They wore bell-bottoms wider at the hem than at the waist, shoulder pads a linebacker would envy, glittery butterfly hair clips, fuzzy boas, and, of course, a few “sewed-it-myself” looks. When WWD asked designers — from Tommy Hilfiger and Norma Kamali to Brian Atwood and Pamela Love — to share memories of their back-to-school fashion choices, we discovered some were preppy wannabes and others were fans of grunge, but most were just teens trying to find their own personal style.

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Swarovski Collective 2016 Designers Announced

Swarovski announced the 15 designers who will participate in the Swarovski Collective 2016, a one-year program during which they will receive financial support and crystal product from the company. They are Alexander Lewis, Christian Wijnants, Creatures of the Wind, David Koma, Emilia Wickstead, Esteban Cortázar, Haizhen Wang, Iris van Herpen, Peter Pilotto, Rosie Assoulin, Tanya Taylor, Thomas Tait, Tim Coppens, Tome and Vivienne Hu.
“It is a pleasure to build on the success of the Swarovski Collective with this new lineup of creatives, and our ongoing commitment to emerging talent with the Swarovski Collective Prize,” said Nadja Swarovski, member of the Swarovski Executive Board. “This is an exceptional group of designers, and we look forward to seeing them innovate with crystal looks over the coming year.”
One of the 15 designers will win the 25,000 euro ($ 27,500 at current exchange) Swarovski Collective Prize in May 2016.
“I’m excited to be part of the Swarovski Collective and to be using crystals as a creative ingredient for the first time to add a new dimension to my collection,” said Thomas Tait.
Rosie Assoulin noted, “We are so honored to be working with Swarovski and to have the opportunity to really dive into their treasure trove

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Sara Lundberg Scoops Designers’ Nest Prize at Copenhagen Fashion Week

ROYAL PRIZE: Crown Princess Mary of Denmark wearing Danish label Fonnesbech presented Sara Lundberg with the Designers’ Nest prize.
The talent show and award organized by trade fair Revolver was held Friday afternoon during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
A jury that included London-based designer Peter Jensen, Eyes on Talents’ cofounder Guillaume de Piédoüe and fashion scholar Ane Lunge Jorlen selected the 28-year-old Swedish designer as the winner of the competition.
“She expressed the way we convey emotions today is through emojis, and how fashion has become a new community,” Lunge Jorlen explained.
“Her statement was very strong: fashion turned into a totem, a sculpture,” de Piédoüe said. The co-founder of the online platform for connecting brands with international design talents sees a “good combination of technical skills and creativity among Scandinavian designers.”
Lundberg, who just graduated from at the Swedish Schools of Textiles and cites Rei Kawakubo among her favorite designers, is to start a PhD in fashion design in Vilnius, Lithuania  this fall. “I want to discuss things, and continue to do projects about humanity,” she told WWD.
Lundberg was one of 24 students from eight schools in Nordic countries competing for the prize, valued at 50,000 Danish kroner, or $ 7,310 at current exchange.
Louise Wanggren also from

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Singapore Designers Tour Prabal Gurung’s Showroom With CFDA

FASHION LESSONS WITH PRABAL: On Thursday morning, as part of the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Fashion Futures program — launched in partnership with Singapore Fashion Week in May — three Singapore-based designers touched down at Prabal Gurung’s atelier in the heart of New York City’s Garment District for a chat and tour. The experience was just a small part of the jam-packed, three-day immersive fashion program aimed at nurturing rising fashion talent in the Southeast Asia country.
The itinerary, organized by the CFDA and Mercury Marketing and Communications, will introduce the three established designers — Chelsea Scott-Blackhall of Dzojchen, Sabrina Goh of Elohim, and Priscilla Ong of Ong Shunmugam — to the American fashion industry via designer showroom visits (to Carolina Herrera’s, Diane von Furstenberg’s and Thakoon Panichgul’s, in addition to Gurung’s) and meetings with fashion public relations firms and retailers such as Kirna Zabête and Fivestory. As part of the trip, the trio will also tour the CFDA Fashion Incubator and visit a New York manufacturing operation under the CFDA’s Fashion Manufacturing Initiative.
Blackhall and Ong have run their respective women’s contemporary sportswear brands locally in Singapore for five years; Goh has had her brand for six. Gurung, who is

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London’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise Names Designers to Pioneer Program

YOUNG PIONEERS: The Centre for Fashion Enterprise, a British business incubator, has announced the six London-based designers who will join its New Fashion Pioneer Program, which runs for six months. They are the LVMH Grand Prix scholarship winner Richard Malone; women’s wear designer Min Wu; Lei Sihan of the jewelry brand Lion Studio; the design duo Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe of the sustainable women’s wear label Gyo Yuni Kimchoe; performance active wear designer Charlie Cohen; and Fashion East men’s wear designer Grace Wales Bonner.
“These Pioneer designers represent a new crop of talent who are breaking the mold. They redefine what a fashion business is, and illustrate that today’s new designers can explore design, fashion and product from a range of different angles with sufficient talent to lead new markets,” said Wendy Malem, director of the CFE.
“Since we launched our label, we have faced so many difficulties and problems in various areas and the program and the support it provides will be such a huge help to overcome these obstacles and grow as a sustainable business,” said designer Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe. Among the program’s alumni are fashion labels Erdem, Thomas Tait, Marques’Almeida, Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto and Craig

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Flashback Friday: That Time Kim Kardashian Walked in Ed Hardy Designer’s Fashion Show


Christian Audigier passed away Thursday.

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We Are The Future: Italy’s New Wave Of Visionary Designers

By Chiara Tronville

Yesterday’s emerging talent, today’s visionary designers. An update on Made in Italy with 16 dreamers-entrepreneurs.

Don’t call them young, don’t call them new: the designers in this article are the already-recognized evolution of Italian fashion. They did their best, challenging a market dominated by luxury brands, deciding to work for themselves in an uncertain historical period. And they’ve done it. It can be seen in their sales and their followers.

Despite their differences, there is a fine red thread that links them together: the humility with which they started up: in silence, taking samples around in the trunks of their cars, looking for a break abroad, working day and night in the offices of a fashion house. But it’s also the determination in wanting to do it their way, looking for investors, suppliers, small workshops for production, going to the basics of materials and hand craftsmanship, taking on the role of entrepreneur. Few of them have an established business behind them. This has made them freer, more curious, cultured travelers. With a calculator in their hands, sure, but with visionary talent.

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi managed to first convince the stars and then the critics. His journey began in 1999, when the designer from Messina flew to LA, looking for America. Today he shows in Milan (and his catwalk, with its lights, music and atmosphere, is one of the most eagerly anticipated and spectacular) and is represented in 160 boutiques worldwide. Strong vibrant colors, pop prints, leather and studs are his signature looks. But behind his friendship with celebrities, there is his cultured and mature attention to every detail: rigorously hand-embroidered by a top secret Lombard workshop.

A-Lab
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Alessandro Biasi

It should have been a collective project between art and fashion: it became an international clothing brand. Created by Alessandro Biasi and produced exclusively in Milan, A-Lab has become famous by looking forwards, with the shape of its armour-clothes (some, from their debut, still numbered like pieces of art) and by using digital communication: “A parallel reality, which doesn’t always correspond to the truth.”

Andrea Pompilio
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Andrea Pompilio. ©Alessandro Furchino

There are three fundamental moments in the story of Andrea Pompilio: the shock on his grandmother’s face when, age eight, he revealed he wanted to work in fashion; the move from Pesaro to Milano and the decision to go it alone (his brand debuted in 2010 with the first women’s collection in 2013). There’s just been one emotional crisis in NYC, after arriving in Calvin Klein’s style office, because he didn’t know anyone in the city. Everything else has been work, intuition and solid experience for his cv (also with Prada). His garments are now in 37 points of sale, and focus on the idea of masculine sartorial style. “I define myself as classic: duffle coats and double-breasted designs are never missing from my collections.”

Andrea Incontri
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Andrea Incontri. © Giovanni Gastel

From Mantua, he’s gentle in his actions, with a poetic but functional approach to fashion, and never mainstream. After starting off with a strong design focus and a passion for tactile experiences (he was working as a consultant for a fabrics firm), he debuted with his own brand in 2009. He loves silence, the elegance of days gone by and the ability of the Japanese to remain in equilibrium between sobriety and madness. These inspirations emerge between the lines of his men and women’s collections, in which he puts together clean lines and special materials (also hitech). Recognition of his talent for accessories has led him to become, from two seasons, the creative director of Tod’s men’s collection.

Marco De Vincenzo
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Marco De Vincenzo. ©Letorres

After graduating from IED, Marco De Vincenzo (1978, Aries) found out that there would be interviews at Fendi the following day. He introduced himself, literally, and was taken on. From then on he grew in the design office of the fashion house, working side by side with Silvia Venturini. Above all he learned “to not trust the obvious and to not be afraid of making brave decisions.” So much so that he launched his own line, with a first show in Paris in 2009. Today the boy from Messina is, for creativity and preciousness, among the most respected of the new Made in Italy fashion. His signature piece? “The skirt, symbol of femininity and movement.”

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De Vincenzo: “Futuristic head, old print of Vulcano Island, a contemporary portrait of a woman: my ideal mix.”

Daniele Carlotta
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Daniele Carlotta. ©Marco Falcetta

Brought up in Modica (Ragusa) among the precious materials of his mother’s shop, known as “The Lady of Silk,” Daniele Carlotta (born in 1985) has a sense for materials, a taste for contrasts and a sexy aesthetic which goes beyond European borders. In fact, only two years after the launch of his first collection he is already present in one hundred boutiques around the world. Meanwhile, given his passion for the atelier dimension and a direct relationship with clients, the Sicilian designer is thinking of a made-to-measure project.

Au Jour Le Jour
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Au Jour Le Jour. ©Ryan Jerome

A meeting at a Milanese party: they talked about fashion. Thinking about it, Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez (35 and 40 years old respectively) were right. They agreed on the fact that something was missing from the Italian panorama: a brand which would be strong and funny (at an affordable price). So they created it in 2010. Notoriety came straight away through social media, where they became the favored designers of bloggers and friends. The digital word-of-mouth was so intense as to get to Giorgio Armani himself, who then wanted to endorse them, having them as guests in his theatre for their first official show. A men’s collection followed and global visibility. Their best sellers? For her, t-shirt dresses, a piece which is now in continuous production. For him, patterned sweatshirts and t-shirts.

Greta Boldini
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Alex Flagella and Michela Musco. ©Carlotta Bertelli

They fell in love, but after Polimoda they couldn’t find satisfying work for both of them in the same city. So Alex Flagella (31) and Michela Musco (28) founded, in 2011, the Roman atelier Greta Boldini. In a short time it transformed into a label looking for a fresh sartorial approach, a new generation. Today the design duo are on their sixth collection. “With the last collections we started from scratch, turning to a more minimalist taste, which still focuses on hand-embroidered details, but in a more wearable version. Also for daywear, with straight tunics and flat sandals.”

MSGM
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Massimo Giorgetti. ©Emilio Tini

He began with streetwear, and has excelled both at using colors and marketing. The result: more than 600 shops in six years with his brand MSGM and the appointment as Creative Director at Emilio Pucci. Massimo Giorgetti, from Rimini, had a genial intuition: to enter into a slice of the middle market with an instantly recognizable, energetic and day-to-day product. A determining factor in the extraordinary success he’s had has been his partnership with the manufacturer (the Paoloni Group) and the distributor (the showroom of Riccardo Grassi), solid Italian realities.

Marco Grisolia
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Marco Grisolia.

As well as being a designer, Marco Grisolia (37 years old) is also a teacher and a stylist. This versatility has made him independent; allowing him to dedicate himself to fashion like a personal project, free from market logic. His niche product anticipates (or follows) contemporary trends. His shapes? Oversize. “I believe in mental and physical comfort, far away from the obsession of showing off the body at all costs.”

Gabriele Colangelo
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Gabriele Colangelo.

When he works on a collection, he begins with a theme, translating it into new tactile experiences. After all, the passion for experimenting with materials is in his DNA. Born in 1975, Gabriele Colangelo is, in fact, the son of a family of Milanese furriers. His career is punctuated with institutional awards. Distributed globally, his clean and geometric collections are much appreciated in Asia (in particular Korea, Japan and Hong Kong). From this season he is also Creative Director of Giada, a Chinese luxury brand totally manufactured in Italy.

ComeforBreakfast
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Antonio Romano e Francesco Alagna.

For their label (created in September 2010) they chose an original phrase: a breakfast invitation: “It’s the moment of the day that we both prefer, the one we like to share.” Antonio Romano and Francesco Alagna love to be direct, no filters, and they place themselves out of the pack: “Comeforbreakfast? An independent, experimental, intimate brand.” Among their best-selling pieces, tailored jackets and, surprisingly, sandals, a well-liked limited edition. They are among the selection for the Woolmark Prize 2015, which will be assigned in the next months.

Alberto Zambelli
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Alberto Zambelli.

Cultured in his citations and in the use of materials, Alberto Zambelli has worked in fashion for many years and, for the last two seasons, has started to follow a personal route: “I preferred to get the right experience in order to be able to tackle the creation of a high brand of prêt à porter.” Meanwhile he shares his time between China, where he is the creative director of a contemporary colored collection with capillary distribution, and Japan, where he is developing a Made in Italy line, with a definite essential feel for a third party. His passion for Asia can be seen in his pieces, which he defines as minimal decorative (at the moment only available in China, Korea and Japan): wild but with PVC embroidery and Swarovski crystals.

Main image: Fausto Puglisi after the défilé A/W 2015. ©Luca Cannonieri

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Designers, Artists Gather for L.A.’s Arts District Parachute Market

Designers and artists will descend on the newly built One Santa Fe mixed-use project in downtown Los Angeles’ Arts District for the biannual Parachute Market.
The design fest culls its featured exhibitors from the local design community for a “pop-up” art and retail event June 6 and 7. Quincy Jones Productions partnered with Parachute on a June 5 preview featuring jazz pianist Alfredo Rodriguez and a screening of “Synesthesia.”
Exhibitors include Welcome Projects, Knibb Design, Reform Gallery and Matin.

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Russian designers bring politics to catwalk

Russian fashion designers present their new political-minded collections on a Moscow catwalk. Rough Cut (no reporter narration).


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British Designers Attend the UK Fashion & Textiles Awards

MATERIAL MATTERS: British textile companies, retailers and designers gathered to honor industry creatives at the annual UK Fashion & Textiles Awards held in east London on Thursday night.
“It celebrates all the people that you don’t normally hear about in the press,” said Patrick Grant, who presented the textiles manufacturer award to Joshua Ellis & Co. “The manufacturers, the textile suppliers, the printers. I mean of course there are some brands in there as well but you know it’s really, it’s a very different mix of winners this evening.”
Held at Tobacco Dock, the awards ceremony was hosted by Jack Guinness and model Amber Le Bon along with a panel of judges including Grant, Henry Holland and Harvey Nichols fashion buying director Anita Barr.
Three-time award winner Christopher Raeburn was among the guests at the black tie affair including UKFT president Princess Anne, Dominic Jones, Lulu Kennedy, Mary Portas, and Tallulah Harlech. There was also a runway show featuring various looks from the nominees.
Raeburn said he’s looking forward to showing his men’s wear collection in London, and is mulling doing an event in New York for the new fashion showcase there. “We’re well on track. It’s a very different concept and a bigger collection

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British Designers Create Chairs for Selfridges Charity Initiative

CHAIR-ITABLE CAUSE: Selfridges has collaborated with The Art Room, a charity supported by the Duchess of Cambridge, on a collection of 90 chairs by artists and designers including Tom Dixon, Paul Smith, Hervé Léger, Alice Temperley, Lulu Guinness, Charlotte Olympia, Hannah Weiland of Shrimps and Cara Delevingne.
Arts consultant Flora Fairbairn and her team gave each designer a chair to design – without a specific brief. “We approached at least 250 people,” said Fairbairn, co-founder of Fair & Co., an arts consultancy firm,  It was a very short time frame. I think we started in March. We gave them the chair, and then we told them to bear in mind that people will be looking up at the chair, so you gotta take that into account. It is really exciting to see the result because they are so varied, because obviously they are all the same chair.”
Produced and curated by Fair & Co., the chairs will be on show, suspended on wires in Selfridges’ central atrium, for six weeks. The items will be listed for auction starting May 22 through Paddle8, an online auctioneer. A live auction to take place at Selfridges on June 9.
In addition, Selfridges has created a pop-up art

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City of Atlanta Creates Grants for Fashion Designers

ATLANTA — The Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs in partnership with RagTrade Atlanta has created the Atlanta Emerging Fashion Designer Grant that will award five fashion designers $ 1,500 each to assist with building their businesses in Atlanta.
The award is designed to support American fashion designers based in the City of Atlanta. It is an expansion of the city’s already existing Emerging Artist Award created a several years ago to provide grant opportunities to cultural, nonprofit and community organizations and to individuals, said Camille Russell Love, executive director of the Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs. “We support artists in Atlanta with an award to pursue their craft in Atlanta,” she said. That includes artists, writers, dancers, musicians, those involved in film — and now fashion.
“We believe that this grant program will not only benefit the growth of our fashion community, but the city as well,” Love added. “Atlanta is a hub of creativity and is really expanding its reach to artists and help fuel their creativity,” Love said. “We want to make Atlanta where they want to be.”
Acknowledging that fashion designers often leave Atlanta to pursue their careers in New York, Los Angeles or elsewhere, Angela Watts, founder of RagTrade Atlanta and president

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City of Atlanta Creates Grants for Fashion Designers

ATLANTA — The Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs in partnership with RagTrade Atlanta has created the Atlanta Emerging Fashion Designer Grant that will award five fashion designers $ 1,500 each to assist with building their businesses in Atlanta.
The award is designed to support American fashion designers based in the City of Atlanta. It is an expansion of the city’s already existing Emerging Artist Award created a several years ago to provide grant opportunities to cultural, nonprofit and community organizations and to individuals, said Camille Russell Love, executive director of the Mayor’s Office of Cultural Affairs. “We support artists in Atlanta with an award to pursue their craft in Atlanta,” she said. That includes artists, writers, dancers, musicians, those involved in film — and now fashion.
“We believe that this grant program will not only benefit the growth of our fashion community, but the city as well,” Love added. “Atlanta is a hub of creativity and is really expanding its reach to artists and help fuel their creativity,” Love said. “We want to make Atlanta where they want to be.”
Acknowledging that fashion designers often leave Atlanta to pursue their careers in New York, Los Angeles or elsewhere, Angela Watts, founder of RagTrade Atlanta and president

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Singapore Fashion Week Boosts Local and International Designers

SINGAPORE — Victoria Beckham’s fall 2015 collection concluded Singapore Fashion Week Sunday night, a culmination of a whirlwind partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America to bring wider recognition to local designers.
While seen as a hub for consumerism, this Southeast Asian nation has lagged behind in garnering attention for its homegrown designer labels. This year’s collaboration with CFDA attempted to inject international interest in three chosen Singaporean brands — Elohim by Sabrina Goh, Dzojchen by Chelsea Scott-Blackhall and Ong Shunmugam by Priscilla Shunmugam – giving them the opportunity to show in New York in July during the men’s shows and allowing them access to advice from Diane von Furstenberg, Thakoon Panichgul and Victoria Beckham during Singapore Fashion Week. Staging their shows alongside local and regional brands, the five-day event drew a diverse crowd of Asian celebrities.
Unfortunately, the biggest star attraction, Cate Blanchett, initially slated to attend Australian designer Dion Lee’s fall show, had to bow out due to scheduling conflicts with the Cannes International Film Festival.
Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of CFDA, said American designers were eager to showcase in Singapore because it could act as a gateway to the rest of Asia.
“Everybody wants to sell in Asia, everybody wants

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Designers Dish: Roger Vivier’s Bruno Frisoni


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Argentine designers showcase edgy moods and neutral wools

Argentina’s top fashion designers including Min Agostini and Laurencio Adot present their 2015 Fall/Winter collections at the Designers Look Buenos Aires F W 2015 event in the capital. Rough cut – no reporter narration


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Alexander Wang’s Brunette Brigade: The Designer’s Model Army Goes Goth

Alexander Wang backstage beauty

It was a little darker than usual backstage today at Alexander Wangs downtown Pier 36 show space, where models peeked out from behind slick, slightly matted strands of jet-black hair. Among the designer’s usual lineup of raven-hued favorites, including Kendall Jenner, Binx Walton, Jamie Bochert, and Catherine McNeil, there were a few formerly blonde faces shrouded in inky, choppy layers. For Wang’s fall 2015 collection of chained, studded, and shredded separates, hairstylist Guido Palau explained, “We dyed a few of the girls black this week, because it’s just a dark-haired look. The blondes look good, but this was a heavy goth moment. I mean, listen to this music,” he said, pointing to a speaker pumping out Prodigy. “Wait until you see the shoes.”

A handful of models—including a formerly platinum Ashleigh Good—were sent to colorist Victoria Hunter at Manhattan’s Whittemore House for the transformation in advance of Wang’s show. “It’s more modern than that shiny blue black that you might get out of a box,” said Whittemore of the multi-tonal matte hue she whipped up for the occasion. “There are different levels within the hair, and more golden undertones under the base. It’s punk, but it looks natural. This is the new black.”

Once dyed, Guido and his team shaped shaggy layers around the cheekbones and cut a few swaths of forehead-skimming fringe. “It’s that late seventies–rock shape. Alex wanted to see different personalities on the runway—different haircuts, different lengths—and layers give personality,” he said, admiring Bochert’s face-framing strands as she walked by.

“I’m in my element,” admitted Bochert, whose own coffee shag seemed predestined for this show. “It’s reminding me of being a teenager, when I would dye my hair black—I was listening to The Cure and Nine Inch Nails, I was really into goth,” she said. “When I went for my fitting Alex said, ‘There’s no way I couldn’t have you in this one.’”

For a finishing touch of grunge, Palau practically soaked the models’ hair with Redken Diamond oil, pulling pieces in front of the face and pushing it over the ears. “The dirtier, the better,” he explained of the slick, slightly sweaty effect, which looked well suited to the designer’s club kids. “It’s the latest incarnation of the Alexander Wang girl,” he said. “Cool, urban, downtown.”  Prepare for a hair blackout south of Fourteenth street.

 

See the Alexander Wang fall 2015 collection:

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

The post Alexander Wang’s Brunette Brigade: The Designer’s Model Army Goes Goth appeared first on Vogue.

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Note to Designers of Gmail

In Gmail, this icon means “return” to prior page.

image

A few inches away, on the same page, this icon means “reply.”

image

I’m curious if anyone on the Gmail design team noticed that these two icons are not what I like to call “different.”

I wonder if the team knows I have clicked the wrong one of those two icons approximately 7,285,942 times. And that’s just this week.

Is it just me?


Scott Adams Blog

WIRED by Design – Golden Rules for Successful Collaborations, From Star Hotel Designers

Commune at WIRED by Design, 2014. In partnership with Skywalker Sound, Marin County, CA. To learn more visit: live.wired.com
WIRED Videos – The Scene

Holiday Wish List: What Shoe Designers Want This Season


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Remember Your Favorite Fleece From College? Designers Say It’s Time To Bring It Back

In his fall show, Altuzarra sent models down the runway in evening dresses and skirts styled with what we can most accurately describe as Patagonia-style fleeces. Though the styling was epically amazing, it may…




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Designers Dish: Tod’s Creative Director Alessandra Facchinetti


During a recent stop in L.A., the Milan-based mega designer (and Tom Ford’s former right hand) dished on her minimalist collection, what makes a proper Hollywood muse and the art of “managing the creative process like a schedule.”

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