Bottega Veneta RTW Spring 2020

Few designer arrivals are instantly momentous. Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee is finding that out.
Lee’s appointment at Bottega came with high expectations buoyed by his Phoebe-centric résumé; he was a longtime assistant to Phoebe Philo, now on industry hiatus (because no one wants to think she’s exited fashion for good). Insider-celebrated, he was also green in the ways of fronting a major brand, and in connecting to women on the emotional level that made Philo more cult goddess that mere fashion star.
Would Lee command a slice of the Phoebe-loving population longing for courtship? After his second runway on Thursday, the answer remains a giant question mark. One point is very clear: Lee has a long way to go, both in clarifying his vision and refining his skills. After the show, Lee said this collection was about “solidifying icons…the things we’ve become known for.”
But what are the Bottega icons? There’s a very specific, very famous handbag treatment that Lee has translated to clothes and shoes. And he listed, “the pouch bag, the kind of ease, reality of dressing.” But are those identifiable codes? In fact, does Bottega really have a ready-to-wear iconography? If yes, what is it, and how does he advance

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