Chanel RTW Spring 2020

The Nouvelle Vague — the New Wave. Could Virginie Viard have chosen a more pointed, or more poignant, theme for her first solo ready-to-wear collection for Chanel following the death of Karl Lagerfeld?
Guests arriving at the Grand Palais came across another major set, the concept a Karl-created signature that the brand seems intent on continuing. This one depicted the rooftops of Paris, their distinctive zinc surfaces linked by walkways that proved perfect for fashion strolling.
In her show notes, Viard said the rooftops remind her of the Nouvelle Vague. “I thought about Kristen Stewart playing Jean Seberg and all the actresses Gabrielle Chanel dressed at that time,” she said. Clearly, she also thought of shifting Chanel out from Lagerfeld’s powerful aura and starting to put her own creative mark on the brand. (To that end, continuing with the grand sets may be counterproductive, at least until she clearly defines the essence of her Chanel.)
For couture, Viard hedged. The clothes were fine but opinion-free. Not so here, as she went in a decidedly younger direction, with mostly leggy silhouettes and a focus on shorts. Her newsiest proposal: The Chanel tweed suit reimagined as a romper. The notion charmed with a wacky classicism

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</p Read More…